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Simone Bellotti’s flawless minimalism at Jil Sander
Opening the second day of Milan Fashion Week, Simone Bellotti unveiled his Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection for Jil Sander at the German house’s headquarters. Inspired by the notion of “indoor clothing,” the show explored the concept of revealing the essential through details usually deemed superfluous… Numéro takes a closer look.
A Jil Sander show questioning the notion of intimacy
A few days before the Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show in Milan on February 25th, French actress Pom Klementieff and other guests received an invitation in their mailbox. An audio file which contained a poem, The House Above The Sea, written by Italian author Chiara Barzini and read by icon Kim Gordon. As a meditation on the idea of home and intimacy, it set the tone for a reflection that ran throughout the entire collection… The superfluous and the essential.
Catapulted as creative director of Jil Sander in March 2025, Simone Bellotti left the Swiss brand Bally to relocate in Milan. Season after season, the designer keeps exploring the German label’s minimalist heritage.
From the very first silhouettes emerging on the runway, some jackets and shirt collars tipped backward, while pockets seemed ready to slip out of their seams. Later on, Simone Bellotti imagined long slits opening at the back of these key pieces, allowing both air and gaze to circulate. “I was wondering whether something superfluous could be considered essential,” the designer shared after the show.
Indoor wardrobe as a common thread
The “home wardrobe” mentioned by the designer in the show notes is not merely reduced to the idea of a garment designed to be “comfortable.” In a palette of deep black, grey and midnight blue, Jil Sander’s next season silhouette appears infused with a light sensuality.
As a nod to his personal history — his father was an upholsterer, Simone Bellotti brings a series of furnishing fabrics onto the runway, softening their drape or sculpting them into hourglass shapes. These fabrics, seemingly heavy at first glance, are thus turned into coats or lightweight dresses that are both fluid and structured.
One year after taking the reins at Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti seems to be thriving within this space of tension between German rigor and Italian sensibility that defines the house. He masters its fundamentals — the purity of lines and precision of tailoring — often subverting them through subtle details, yet always reaffirming their essence with controlled elegance at the end.
All the looks from the Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2026/2027 show:
