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GCDS turns a viral trend into a runway show
At the GCDS Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show, Giuliano Calza draws his inspiration from the “What’s in my bag?” trend to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the most pop-infused label of Milan Fashion Week.
By Léa Zetlaoui.
“What’s in my bag?”: A viral trend
Who better than Giuliano Calza to turn a viral social media trend into a fashion show? To mark his comeback on the runway, the Italian designer took his cue from the famous concept “What’s in my bag?” for his GCDS Fall/Winter 2026–2027 show.
“What’s in my bag?” videos first emerged on YouTube. As their title suggests, the concept is to reveal the contents of one’s handbag, preferably a designer one. Both a status symbol and a staged moment of intimacy, opening one’s bag for all to see continues to captivate audiences on social media. Naturally, the concept quickly spread on Instagram and TikTok. On the Chinese platform alone, the hashtag #whatsinmybag has over 15 billion views. The craze has grown so large that Vogue turned it into a celebrity-focused series, while Coach adopted that format to promote its Tabby bag in 2023. And now, it’s GCDS’s turn to reinvest the idea.
But how does this viral trend translate into a fashion collection? “For us, ‘What’s in My Bag?’ isn’t just a meme,” Giuliano Calza explained. “It’s about opening the bag that holds ten years of my world and revealing what’s inside: the culture, humor, signature silhouettes and iconic creations that have made GCDS what it is.” Ultimately, with this GCDS Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection, the Italian designer unpacks an emotional suitcase, filled with a decade of memories and personal references.
Ten years of fun and pop culture at GCDS
Founded in Milan in 2015 by brothers Giuliano and Giordano Calza, GCDS has established itself as the enfant terrible of Italian Fashion Week. While its bold, ultra-sexy collections flirt with the glamour of Versace and Roberto Cavalli, they are equally rooted in a distinctly playful universe where humor is everywhere. Blending visual extravagance with untamed energy, each show is peppered with nods to pop culture. Among the very special guests spotted at GCDS shows are SpongeBob SquarePants, Bratz and Polly Pocket.
Drawing its inspiration from a shopping mall, the set, handcrafted by Italian artisans, features oversized toys and drinks. The models emerge from a giant shopping bag, like dolls trapped inside this temple to consumerism. An ironic take on modern capitalism.
Although the collection is not presented as a retrospective, Giuliano Calza indulges in a flashback with the opening silhouettes inspired by college students’ style. Then come dresses designed for pop stars – flashy, sexy and almost like caricatures. Regarding menswear, python-print suits seem to be made for rock stars. Not to mention a collaboration with Valentino Rossi, former rider and 1960s icon, and Betty Boop or Hello Kitty motifs. Finally, the flashy accessories, crafted in Italy, prove that local craftsmanship can also embrace self-mockery.
Set to the electro-pop beats of Cobrah, the GCDS show remains firmly rooted in its own universe. The world of shopping malls, where pop culture is sacred and humor is a weapon. Here, only one rule prevails – to celebrate your style with extravagance and irony.
All the looks from the GCDS Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show
