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Designers who will present their debut show in September at the Fashion Week
After nearly a year of departures and new appointments at the helm of major fashion houses, the Spring/Summer 2026 Fashion Week already promises to be unmissable. Why? Because it will showcase the debut collections of newly appointed creative directors. From Demna to Pierpaolo Piccioli, Louise Trotter and Matthieu Blazy, Numéro takes stock.
The end of the “fashion mercato”?
Last June, Jonathan Anderson’s debut show for Dior took the fashion world by storm. With a limited guest list and journalists forced to follow the event remotely (and live) so as not to miss a thing, the show marked a new era both for the house and for the designer himself. After twelve years at Loewe, which he turned into one of the decade’s most coveted labels, the Irishman kicked off the season of debut shows.
A long-awaited moment in the fashion industry, which has recently been rocked by waves of appointments and dismissals of artistic directors. After endless anticipation, countless rumors, and a few surprise revelations, the time has finally come to discover the debut collections of the new designers now heading these fashion houses. Let’s officially and finally end the “fashion mercato.” The Spring/Summer 2026 Fashion Week is set to be a true marathon. From Gucci to Balenciaga and Chanel, here are the designers presenting their debut collection this fall.
Demna for Gucci
His beginnings: Demna is one of those fashion designers adored by both his peers and the general public. A major figure in contemporary fashion, he originally received an education… in finance. Driven by passion, he eventually enrolled at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and graduated in 2006. That school counts Martin Margiela, Raf Simons, and Dries Van Noten among its alumni.
What followed was a bold and brilliant career, marked by his flair for irony—he landed his first job at Martin Margiela by sending in his portfolio inside a Don Giovanni pizza box. After a stint at Louis Vuitton under Marc Jacobs, he launched his own label, Vetements, in 2015. Its disruptive aesthetic paved the way for his appointment as creative director of Balenciaga. The rest is history.
His signature: While Demna’s visionary approach reshaped Balenciaga’s identity, it also left a lasting mark on the fashion world at large. Between controversies and striking visuals, the designer has defined a sharply tailored silhouette—its powerful attitude sculpted through carefully engineered volumes at the shoulders, torso, and legs. His style fuses couture and streetwear, dominated by oversized proportions, ironic motifs, and subversive cuts.
A debut show in Milan on September 23, 2025
His muses: Thanks to Demna, Kim Kardashian gradually made her way into the exclusive world of luxury fashion. Yet while the American star may be one of his muses, Isabelle Huppert is undoubtedly the numero 1 muse. A fixture at his shows, starring in his campaigns, and regularly wearing his designs on the red carpet, the French actress has become inseparable from Demna and Balenciaga. The question now is whether she will follow him to Gucci…
Why we can’t wait: After his moving final haute couture show last June, Demna is wasting no time between his exit and his new post. While he had hinted behind the scenes that he wouldn’t show a collection before March 2026, the official Milan Fashion Week calendar confirms that Gucci will present a show on September 23rd in Milan. The house, left without a creative director since Sabato de Sarno’s early departure in spring -following the flamboyant Alessandro Michele’s reign (now at Valentino) – is now beginning a new chapter.
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Balenciaga
His beginnings: Pierpaolo Piccioli has been active in the fashion world since the late 1990s—specifically within the realm of Italy’s major fashion houses, whose ateliers he has frequented for over a quarter-century. He began at Fendi in 1999, while also joining the accessories department at Valentino, where he eventually co-directed the collections with Maria Grazia Chiuri from 2008. When she departed for Dior in 2016, the Roman designer took over as sole artistic director of Valentino, a position he held until March 2024.
A rare longevity in the industry, made possible by his sensitive approach to fashion. At Valentino, he developed collections that ran counter to the spectacle-driven logic dominating most runways, offering instead an aesthetic rooted in the brand’s archives and craftsmanship. His silhouettes were simple yet elegant, meticulously crafted down to the last detail.
His signature: Color-block looks have become his hallmark over recent seasons—starting with Pink PPP: a custom shade of pink developed with Pantone to replace Valentino’s iconic red. First seen in a full collection, then across accessories, it became inextricably linked with the Italian house. But above all, Pierpaolo Piccioli stands out for his poetic vision, steeped in romance and elegance. Whether tailored or flowing, his cuts flatter the body beautifully, and his looks are generally stripped of accessories to let the clothing speak for itself.
A debut show in Paris on October 4, 2025
His muses: While young model Kaia Gerber often opened his recent Valentino shows, Pierpaolo Piccioli champions a pared-back fashion sensibility without a defining muse—his collections speak for themselves. That said, he counts among his close friends and muses actress Florence Pugh – frequently on the front rows and often dressed in his creations – and singer FKA Twigs. Strong figures who reflect the designer’s own outspoken political engagement both in Italy and abroad.
Why we can’t wait: Since his departure from Valentino a year and a half ago, Piccioli has kept the fashion world guessing about his next move. Especially since he had never left Rome—or Valentino’s studios—since his beginnings in 1999. His decision to leave was both surprising and bold, ultimately bringing him to Paris, where he now takes the reins at Balenciaga, succeeding Demna. While their visions are markedly different, they share a common focus on tailoring—setting the stage for what is likely to be a striking new era for the French house. All eyes on October 4, 2025, the date of his debut show in Paris.
Matthieu Blazy for Chanel
His beginnings: Less widely known than figures like Jonathan Anderson or Demna, Matthieu Blazy nonetheless ranks among the most admired and respected names in fashion today. Although he rose to greater prominence with his appointment at Bottega Veneta in 2021, the French designer had long been working behind the scenes at some of the most prestigious houses. A graduate of La Cambre in Brussels, he began his career alongside Raf Simons straight out of school, later joining Maison Margiela. He also worked at Celine under Phoebe Philo before rejoining Raf Simons at Calvin Klein.
His vision is that of an architect of movement—he thinks in terms of volume, posture, and weight. This was brought to full expression at Bottega Veneta, which he transformed into a laboratory of materials and cuts, exploring the tension between the lightness of a fabric and the rigidity of a silhouette, or the thickness of leather and the fluidity of a ruffle. Despite his discreet public persona, he also reinvented the brand’s communications strategy, bringing its campaigns into sharper alignment with contemporary culture.
His signature: From his very first show for Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy made his mark. Gone was the vibrant green associated with his predecessor. The opening look was a manifesto of craftsmanship – a pair of jeans, a white tank top, and black ankle boots. But the boots were crafted in Intrecciato leather (a technique mastered by the house’s artisans for decades), and the “jeans” were actually made of nubuck leather printed to mimic denim in trompe-l’oeil. For the designer, luxury no longer resides in logos or trends, but in materials and artisanal savoir-faire.
A debut show in Paris on October 6, 2025
His muses: The famous faces reflecting Matthieu Blazy’s quiet luxury aesthetic are as refined as his vision. Actor Jacob Elordi, who helped spark the men’s handbag trend with him, as well as model Kendall Jenner and rapper A$AP Rocky—both seen in his campaigns—are just a few examples. The designer selects highly influential figures whose impeccable style echoes his own aesthetic.
Why we can’t wait: Matthieu Blazy’s appointment at Chanel, announced in December 2024, has generated great anticipation—and rightly so. Since Karl Lagerfeld’s passing in 2019, the Parisian house was led by his longtime right hand, Virginie Viard, before eventually returning to in-house design. While still omnipresent, the brand has lacked a strong artistic vision for the past six years. It is this absence that the French designer now seeks to address with his highly awaited debut show, scheduled for October 6th, 2025, in Paris—where we hope to see the full extent of Chanel’s craftsmanship paired with his sharp, contemporary approach to luxury.
Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta
Her beginnings: Her name remains largely unfamiliar to the general public, yet Louise Trotter is behind the revival of two major brands: Lacoste and Carven. Before leading those houses, however, she trained at Calvin Klein—where she oversaw women’s ready-to-wear in the 2000s—followed by stints at Tommy Hilfiger and the British label Joseph, where she served from 2009 to 2018.
She later joined Lacoste, where she refreshed its sportswear identity between 2018 and 2023, helping usher in a period of renewed success. She then took the reins at Carven, initiating its revival in just two seasons with ultra-modern silhouettes that balanced the house’s codes with current trends—from sheer skirts to oversized accessories.
Her signature: Louise Trotter’s greatest strength likely lies in her deft command of each house’s heritage. From Lacoste to Carven and Joseph, the British designer has consistently reimagined brand identities through the lens of modernity and trend-awareness. Her highly desirable creations—bridging past and present—have left a lasting mark on the aesthetics of the houses she’s helmed.
First show in Milan on September 27, 2025
Her muses: At Carven, Louise Trotter chose to forgo the celebrity muse strategy. But at a house as influential as Bottega Veneta, she has embraced the tradition. Though she has yet to present a full collection, her debut creations—and first muses—were revealed at the Cannes Film Festival. Among them were Julianne Moore, seen in two of her designs, and Vicky Krieps. Both are commanding presences in cinema, and their strong personalities seem to mirror Trotter’s own journey and influence.
Why we can’t wait: From the black draped gown worn by Julianne Moore—simply adorned with a leather bow at the shoulder and trailing into fringe down the back—to the second black dress worn by Vicky Krieps, with a sculptural bodice and fluid back, both unveiled in Cannes last May, the aesthetic of Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta is already taking shape. Likely a balance between the house’s artisanal know-how and the designer’s sharp, contemporary eye… All will be revealed on September 27, 2025, in Milan.
Dario Vitale for Versace
His beginnings: A 2006 graduate of the Istituto Marangoni in Milan, Dario Vitale is unknown to the general public—and even to much of the fashion world. A discreet figure, the Italian designer began his career at Dsquared2 before joining Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta. In just four short years, he had already added two major fashion houses to his résumé, opening the door to a role at the Prada Group in 2010.
There, he rose through the ranks under the guidance of Miuccia Prada and Fabio Zambernardi (then design director of Prada and Miu Miu), eventually becoming Head of Ready-to-Wear Design and Brand Image at Miu Miu in September 2023. This internal rise earned him growing influence within the group and positioned him as the frontrunner when Prada acquired Versace last spring. Following the announcement of Donatella’s departure—after leading the house since her brother Gianni’s death in 1997—he was named as her successor.
His signature: It’s hard to define the creative language of a designer who has worked behind the scenes for most of his career. But Vitale is credited with designing Miu Miu’s iconic miniskirt, first seen in the Spring/Summer 2022 collection and since gone viral across seasons and across countless wardrobes and fashion brands.
A first show… canceled?
His muses: None are publicly known yet. But judging by the faces that have embodied Miu Miu’s ultra-viral aesthetic in recent years, one can likely expect models like Kaia Gerber, Gigi Hadid, or actress Sydney Sweeney.
Why we can’t wait: This will be the very first Versace collection conceived by a designer who is neither its founder, Gianni Versace, nor his sister Donatella, who led the house for nearly thirty years. A seismic shift for the brand—but not without its complications. Versace no longer appears on the official Milan Fashion Week calendar for September, fueling speculation. Is the new designer struggling to find his footing? Will he stay in the role? Answers will come this fall, with the debut collection now expected to take the form of a low-profile presentation.
Miguel Castro Freitas for Mugler
His beginnings: Another unfamiliar name to the general public, Miguel Castro Freitas succeeds Casey Cadwallader, who had led Mugler since 2017. Yet the Portuguese designer’s background is exemplary: trained by John Galliano at Dior, he went on to work with Stefano Pilati at Saint Laurent, and then with Alber Elbaz at Lanvin. Three influential designers at three prestigious fashion houses, before a return to Dior under Raf Simons, where he honed his tailoring skills. He later joined Sportmax and eventually became head of the women’s studio at Dries Van Noten.
His signature: Having long served as right-hand man to some of fashion’s most iconic designers, Miguel Castro Freitas has not yet revealed a personal aesthetic. But one can imagine he’ll draw from a wide palette—Galliano’s subversion at Dior, Pilati’s glamour at Saint Laurent, Elbaz’s elegance at Lanvin, and the prints of Dries Van Noten. An eclectic melting pot likely to shape his first collections for Mugler, without losing the brand’s bold, sexy edge fostered by Casey Cadwallader.
A debut show in Paris on October 2, 2025
His muses: They may well remain the same as Casey Cadwallader’s, like the stunning Hunter Schafer, for instance…
Why we can’t wait: The unexpected departure of American designer Casey Cadwallader suggests a desire for renewal at Mugler, whose spectacular runway shows once made headlines but had faded somewhat in an era where fashion is constantly raising the bar in theatricality. The arrival of Miguel Castro Freitas marks a new chapter for the brand, which will unveil his debut collection on October 2nd, 2025, in Paris.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for Loewe
Their beginnings: This past January, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez stepped down as creative directors of Proenza Schouler – a brand they themselves had founded twenty years earlier, in 2002. The surprising departure, part of the broader shuffle of artistic directors, laid the groundwork for what followed. Just weeks later, Loewe announced Jonathan Anderson’s exit and the appointment of the American design duo to lead its creative direction.
Both graduates of the Parsons School of Design, they built together a brand with a cool, conceptual image that captivated not only New Yorkers but also European audiences. While a pillar of American fashion, Proenza Schouler had long been navigating the challenges of independence, bouncing between investors over the years. Their decision to join a major fashion house offers them the opportunity to expand their vision without constraint—aside from the house’s legacy and the demanding pace of both men’s and women’s Fashion Weeks.
Their signature: Blending modern elegance with a distinctly European sensibility, the duo’s work at Proenza Schouler was also known for reimagining American sportswear in colorful and playful ways. This cross-continental mix has defined their unique style and authenticity for over two decades.
A show in Paris on October 3, 2025
Their muses: From the charismatic Natasha Lyonne to artist Olympia Scarry, author Ottessa Moshfegh, and especially the ultra-cool Chloë Sevigny, the duo’s muses reflect their arty, offbeat approach to fashion—one that’s not far off from Jonathan Anderson’s own vision during his time at Loewe.
Why we can’t wait: This will be Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s first-ever collection for a brand other than their own. Stepping outside their comfort zone, they will have to adapt to the demands of a major fashion house, its heritage, and an aesthetic far removed from the American fashion scene. A highly anticipated show, their debut for Loewe is set to be a major highlight of Paris Fashion Week on October 3.
