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Meryll Rogge revamps Marni’s essentials in her debut show
Recently appointed creative director at Marni, Meryll Rogge unveiled her debut show for the Italian house during Milan Fashion Week. Numéro looks back at the key elements from her Fall/Winter 2026–2027 collection.
A show at the crossroads of Marni’s universe and Meryll Rogge’s vision
Meryll Rogge’s debut in Milan comes after a particularly eventful year in 2025. Winner of the ANDAM Grand Prize and new creative director at Marni, the Belgian designer is kicking off 2026 at full speed. She designed a collection for one of the most closely watched brands of Fashion Week.
Like many newly appointed creative directors who have joined the ateliers of major houses in the past few seasons, she immersed herself in the archives to master the sartorial and aesthetic codes of the brand. Rather than revamping the proposals of her predecessor Francesco Risso, Meryll Rogge chose to focus on Marni’s earliest collections, which turned out to be very different from the brand’s identity today.
In the early 1990s, fashion was defined by minimalism, without prints or embellishments. The focus was made on fabrics and tailoring. Proportions were modern and continually reinvented. In this show, that spirit emerges through slim, straight coats, fitted shoulders and waists, straight pencil skirts and faux-leather designs.
Meryll Rogge revamps the house’s iconic prints
A simplicity far removed from the extravagant volumes and colourful prints developed by Francesco Risso in past seasons. Meryll Rogge thus seems to be opening an entirely new chapter for the house. A new era where disruption and logic perfectly blend in with the spirit of her own creations with her label.
Despite this apparent minimalism, the Marni Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show is naturally tinged with a selection of prints. While the colour palette is limited to pastel shades, mix-and-match patterns remain very much present, albeit more controlled and limited to a few silhouettes.
As the first woman to oversee the brand’s collections since its founder Consuelo Castiglioni (from 1994 to 2016), Meryll Rogge unveils a more feminine wardrobe, infused with the originality and edgy touch at the core of her own label launched in 2019.
Her fondness for prints is blatant and finds perfect expression at Marni. Here, she revamps the house’s emblematic motifs. Gradient stripes, diagonal checks and polka dots intersect across looks in neutral tones and minimalist cuts, while florals unfold over semi-sheer skirts…
All the looks from the Marni Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show
