Bodies conceal and reveal themselves at Courrèges

At the Courrèges Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show, Nicolas Di Felice celebrates his 5th anniversary with a geometric collection that reveals and conceals the body, as fashion evolves in the age of social media and artificial intelligence.

By Delphine Roche.

The obsessive ticking of a clock preceded and accompanied the Courrèges Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show. Time seems to be running out today, before catastrophe, before the end of the world. There, it found its echo through the daily rhythm of a typical urban woman. The amplified sound of the models’ footsteps gave an overview of the challenge. How to think from a human perspective, when everything seems to overwhelm us and slip away from us?

A praise of geometry at Courrèges

In the 1960s, André Courrèges founded and developed his fashion house with one goal in mind – accompanying women in their daily lives. Trained as an engineer and passionate about sport and architecture, he invented a fashion vocabulary of simple, minimalist, geometric forms. The context of his optimistic and revolutionary era differs in every respect from the one we experience today. In light of today’s necessity, Nicolas Di Felice keeps adding to the Courrèges vocabulary through this collection presented at Paris Fashion Week.

Sharp and often stripped of any accessorising, the silhouettes push the geometry of the 1960s to its limits, while also freeing themselves from it. Coats cut above the knee, pinafore or shirt dresses, and the recurring patch pockets on the chest proclaim a timeless, almost utilitarian elegance. Straight skirts with snap buttons and beautifully tailored straight trousers free the body and the stride, decisive. Sporty details, such as a zip-up bodysuit reminiscent of scuba diving gear, einforce the collection’s active allure.

Nicolas Di Felice sharpens his vision

Above all, Nicolas Di Felice further refines his exploration of concealment and revelation, of protection and exposure. Through a palette of black, grey, and optical white, matte and glossy textures either attract or repel the gaze. The house’s signature vinyl proves particularly striking in an all-over silhouette, pairing trousers with a tunic slipped over a turtleneck. Oversized collars contrast with the slits of silky sheath dresses that reveal the legs.

Shifting the lines

In the age of Instagram, facial recognition, and artificial intelligence, the very notions of the body, nudity, and sensuality have been completely redefined. Showing one’s body is no longer a trivial gesture, and the boundaries between modesty and indecency are no longer determined by humans, but by algorithms. Besides, in the wake of the #MeToo movement, women are resolutely reclaiming the narrative about how they express and perform their gender. Sexuality and bodies have become central, and it is precisely during this moment of friction that Nicolas Di Felice seems, once again, to seek ways of literally shifting the lines.

Courrèges’s white

As if presenting alternating photographic positives and negatives, the designer sent out a procession of white variations of the black silhouettes he had just shown for his finale. He also revamped a gesture that, in his Fall/Winter 2023 show, powerfully embodied the tension between modesty and exposure… A simple strip of fabric crossing otherwise bare breasts, as if to evade Instagram’s censorship. It is through these constant reversals, always guided by a precise geometry, that the creative director finds what he is looking for: a playground that resonates with today’s issues.