How Burc Akyol’s show debunks the myth of the Parisienne

On March 2nd, 2026, the first day of Paris Fashion Week, Burc Akyol took on a fashion icon, that of the “Parisienne”, through his Fall/Winter 2026–2027 show. So, myth or reality?

By Léa Zetlaoui.

The Burc Akyol Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show Paris Fashion Week — The Burc Akyol Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show.

The Parisienne, myth or reality?

Taking on the figure of the “Parisienne” in 2026 is undoubtedly a risky bet. Yet, this is what Burc Akyol does with his Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collection, presented on the ninth floor of the Institut du Monde Arabe. There, he offers a new vision of this fashion icon.

An object of fascination since the late 19th century, the Parisienne captivates not only with her sense of style, but above all with her attitude. A combination of mystery, seduction, and nonchalance. Nearly 150 years after its creation, this urban myth remains as powerful as ever.

So one question remains unanswered… Is the Parisienne a myth or a reality? When we asked the French-Turkish designer at the end of his show, he replied: “The Parisienne is somewhere between the two. She is a chimera, isn’t she?”

A designer’s obsession and fantasy

Seven years after launching his brand, the fashion designer admits he had locked himself inside his own story. Devoted to his craft, body and soul, he found himself lost in a labyrinth of codes, narratives, stereotypes and obsessions. While trying to escape this mental fortress, he rediscovered the myth of the Parisienne. “Actually, I have spent seven years in seclusion, surrounded by images of the Parisienne. Now, I’m stepping out again to confront that vision,” he shares.

Emancipation had to be mental first… Walking the streets of Paris, rediscovering its architecture, its unique atmosphere, and, of course, its inhabitants. “When I arrived here, I didn’t have a chip on my shoulder and I still don’t,” the designer explains. “I acquired them through cinema, music and images. But the most Parisienne of all Parisiennes remain Jane Birkin, who was English, or Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, who grew up in Rome. In the end, this cosmopolitanism is what allows the Parisienne to travel so well.”

Introspection and evolution at the Burç Akyol show

Can the archetype of the Parisienne be renewed? “I don’t know whether she is new. She borrows from many different places. But it’s true that eight years ago I would have presented an all-black collection. This time, however, I wanted to include colour. When people look at us today, we wear colour. I would say that Paris is entering a new creative phase. And I find it very interesting, because it draws on the classics, while shaking them up at the same time,” Burç Akyol replies.

Everything suggests that this Fall/Winter 2026–2027 show was an opportunity for Burç Akyol to take stock and refocus. Besides, it allowed him to open a new chapter seven years later. Naturally, we find once again this type of fashion on the verge of Western rigor and Eastern sensuality.

In this show, Burç Akyol’s magic happens when he revamps the great classics of the women’s wardrobe through the lens of his own French and Turkish heritage. Draped suits from which a panel of fabric escapes, wool coats with rounded volumes and a defiant high collar, dresses enhanced by an obscene slit… The covert eroticism is still there, dramatic, yet never vulgar.

Which silhouette would he consider the most emblematic of the collection? “I love the look made up of a sweater and men’s trousers. It’s my way of doing black without using black, or to create sophistication and luxury with colour.” An exhilarating show to open the first day of Fashion Week.