Chanel Métiers d'Art show in Manchester pays tribute to the new wave

The setting for Chanel’s Métiers d’Art 2023-2024 show in Manchester 

Chanel opted for the city of Manchester to unveil its Métiers d’Art 2023-2024 collection. The house founded by Gabrielle Chanel has undeniable ties with Great Britain, the motherland of tweed. Yet, the decision to present the show in this major city of Northern England, marked by its working-class culture and football cult, may have come as a surprise. 

Virginie Viard wanted to pay tribute to Manchester’s unique creativity, which gave rise to an extremely innovative music scene in the 1970s and 1980s. The Smiths, Joy Division, New Order, then in the 90s, Oasis... the talents of post-punk, new wave, and Brit pop have made their city a musical mecca. 

Even today, concert halls abound, and fans from all over the world embark on a pilgrimage following in the footsteps of their idols. Keeping in mind that creative, urban spirit, the Chanel show took place on Thomas Street at dusk, on a typically chilly winter’s evening. The rain, another typically English and Mancunian trait, even made an appearance for the occasion. 

A fresh, vitamin-packed, pop collection 

While the craftsmanship of Chanel’s Métiers d'art was the centerpiece of the collection, especially through the stunning embroideries like those found on a vinyl record pattern recalling Manchester’s musical culture, tweed was more than ever in the spotlight, featured on suits, coats, Bermuda shorts, among others.

The mini-skirts and trapeze shapes were a beautiful reminder of the breath of fresh air that blew across the world from England in the 1960s. The shetland and cashmere knits warmed up the models who walked bare-legged, embodying the rebellious freedom of young English women. The subtle salmon pink, parma, mustard, and rust colors gradually became more pop and vivid to match the spirit of the 1980s and 1990s. 

With scarves, zip-up jackets, and sporty sweatshirts reminiscent of football fans, the collection plays on different lengths and accessories. In a more punk version, leather ensembles with patinated patent leather combined tube skirts and little jackets with gigot sleeves. All of which perfectly suggested a kind of poetry and inventiveness that we spontaneously associate with English musical ‘subcultures’, creators of codes that are constantly renewed and cleverly subverted. 

Five pieces to remember from the Métiers d'Art collection 

The wrap dress with ruffled armholes (look 15): lovely with its patch pockets on the chest, presented in a beautiful soft shade of aqua green, it evokes all the spirit of the Swinging Sixties. 

The Argyle jumper dress (look 35): a Scottish tartan and English motif (famous thanks to the Burlington socks), revealing Virginie Viard’s ability to play with the masculine-feminine dynamic - the quintessential Chanel code. Embellished with beautiful, imposing jewels by Goossens, it gives a seductive and mischievous attitude. 

The "MCR" printed sweatshirt (look 59): shortly before the show, Chanel revealed an original creation by Peter Saville, the Manchester-born artistic director who designed numerous album covers for Factory Records, a label founded in 1978 representing Joy Division, New Order, and Happy Mondays, among others. Today, Peter Saville is the official graphic designer for the city of Manchester. His exclusive sky blue design for the Arts et Métiers 2023-2024 collection, available on a sweatshirt and beanie, combines the emblems of Manchester, Paris, and Chanel. 

The sporty suit (look 53): the Argyle motif reappeared on an 1980s-inspired suit combining a tube skirt and a jacket with ribbed knit collars and cuffs. Its sporty style in fuchsia and red is irresistible. 

Babies: flat or form-fitting, they are essentially light, sleek, black ballerinas in this collection. Jewels embellish the straps. 

Translation by Emma Naroumbo Armaing.