Anicia, the authentic restaurant that celebrates Auvergne gastronomy

After learning the ropes with great chefs such as Alain Chapel and Pierre Gagnaire (his unrelated namesake), the chef from Haute-Loire François Gagnaire opened his first restaurant in Le Puy en Velay in 2001. A gastronomic restaurant that even won a Michelin star five years later, thanks to a seasonal and uncompromising cuisine, which was nevertheless closed in 2014 following a disagreement with the city’s town hall. Very quickly, the chef plans to open a new address, this time in the heart of the capital. François Gagnaire then opened Anicia (in reference to the Latin name of the ancient Roman town of Le Puy en Velay), a bistro that he describes as a “natural table” dedicated to showcasing the best products of his region of origin.

It is therefore in the heart of the Saint Germain des Prés district, rue du Cherche-Midi, that the chef unveils his little nugget in November 2015. Since then, François Gagnaire has offered a menu including a minimalist selection of recipes made up of local products from short circuits, which he highlights in their raw essence. A committed approach and a responsible menu that have even earned it the Eco-table label, which has been promoting eco-responsible restaurants since 2019. On the menu – which changes every month – the address offers three starters, three main courses (always including a vegetarian dish), a selection of cheeses and three desserts, in addition to a gourmet coffee.

The meal begins with the chef’s specialty: Velay® Caviar, made with green lentils from Le Puy (the first legume to have been labelled PDO) and crab meat, garnished with lentil flour blinis. As for the starters, there is a delicious vegetable milk velouté made of wild mushrooms and wild herbs, or a pâté en croûte “vice-champion du monde 2011 Vérot”, no less. For the main courses, vegetarians and vegans will be able to enjoy an exquisite pastoral of vegetables, mushrooms and fruits from the Indian summer (which can contain up to twenty-five ingredients), and meat lovers will be able to taste the candied peasant bacon, accompanied by Galabar blood sausage and apple cabbage fondue, an ultra-comforting dish with authentic flavors.

Then, it is impossible not to continue the meal by testing the Auvergne cheese platter by Anicia, and more particularly one of their signature products: the peasant cheese matured with artisous, typical of the Haute-Loire, accompanied by a hay bread with an addictive taste. Finally, the address offers beautiful desserts to end gently, such as a surprising dessert mixing chocolate and mushroom or a tiramisu revisited with verbena. For those who just want a snack like in childhood, Anicia also opens its doors in the afternoon to offer a beautiful selection of organic juices, teas and infusions embellished with ultra-gourmet cakes and pastries, such as honey madeleines, small verbena puffs or a lentil flour flan.

Anicia by François Gagnaire, 97 rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris 6th.