Maria Grazia Chiuri returns to Fendi as Chief Creative Officer

Who is Maria Grazia Chiuri?

Who hides behind Maria Grazia Chiuri’s smoky eye? Considered one of the most influential figures in contemporary fashion, the designer was born in Rome in 1964. After excelling at the European Institute of Design, she joined Fendi, and later Valentino, where she spent seventeen years honing her craft before being appointed head of womenswear at Dior in 2016.

Her career has been free of missteps and defined by several recurring themes. Music, art, ancient Greece, and nature are the threads that together weave a thoughtful, poetic body of work. For her, fashion is a stream of stories and symbols made tangible through fabric and craftsmanship, an subtle balance between conceptual reflection and pragmatism regarding clothing. Her vision fully took shape at Dior, where she worked until last April.

As the fashion world witnesses an ongoing game of musical chairs among creative directors, the announcement struck like a thunderclap – designer Jonathan Anderson was appointed new creative director of the men’s, women’s, and haute couture collections at Dior. Maria Grazia Chiuri then bid farewell to 30 Avenue Montaigne… Only to return to her first, dearest house of Fendi a few months later.

As one of the very few women, who have reached such heights of power and mastery within the industry, Maria Grazia Chiuri has forever left her mark in the history of fashion.

From her debuts with Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino

It was at Valentino that Maria Grazia Chiuri truly came out of her cocoon. There, she works alongside her long-time creative partner, Pierpaolo Piccioli. Initially limited to the accessories department, the duo was then appointed in 2008 co-artistic directors of the Roman house founded by Valentino Garavani in 1960.

Their first runway? The Spring/Summer 2009 haute couture show set the tone for what was to come. A collection featuring opulent display of crystal-encrusted gowns, airy chiffons, and generously cut coats. From that moment onwards, Valentino would merge the house’s majestic identity with a rebellious, rock-infused modernity.

Sheath dresses became more daring, lace and embroidery more intricate, while the house’s iconic colour red gave way to pale and deeper hues. With romantic ruffles and crinolines, diaphanous tulle, and gilded adornments, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli emphasised the sense of refinement, the richness of materials, and the celebration of embellishment.

And the pair didn’t stop there. This period also saw the birth of accessories that would become cult pieces, especially with the Rockstud collection from the Fall/Winter 2010-2011 season. A bold blend of punk and Italian elegance. Maria Grazia Chiuri didn’t know it at the time, but her work at Valentino was already paving the way for the story she would later write solo at Dior… One of Roman rigour, graphic romanticism, and unapologetic conviction.

The Dior era

On May 27th, 2025, the fashion world could not hold back its tears during Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s farewell show, held two days before the announcement of her official departure. And for good reason… The designed appointed at Dior in 2016 was the first woman to lead the house’s women’s collections since its founding in 1946. She followed in the footsteps of legendary figures, such as Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, and Raf Simons.

Fully aware of the symbol it represented, Maria Grazia Chiuri made a powerful statement through the white T-shirt reading “We Should All Be Feminists” during her debut Spring/Summer 2017 show. A powerful message that would live up to its promise. What followed was nearly a decade filled with references to multifaceted, powerful women and collaborations with committed artists like Judy Chicago, Mickalene Thomas, and Penny Slinger.

Beyond her sophisticated storytelling and unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, Maria Grazia Chiuri conceived her shows as an ongoing tribute to the legacy of Monsieur Dior and his successors. From the now-iconic Book Tote embroidered with toile de Jouy dear to Christian Dior to the revamping of the motto “J’adore Dior” and the revival of the emblematic Saddle bag created by John Galliano, the designer dug up archival element while pursuing her ambitious goal – carving a space for Dior in the zeitgeist.

New Chief Creative Officer at Fendi

Now, Maria Grazia Chiuri is coming home. At Fendi, to be more precise, where her story began, long before Dior and Valentino. It was within this family-run house, founded in 1925 by Adele and Edoardo Fendi, that the designer launched her career in 1989. While serving as creative director for the accessories line, and more specifically for leather goods alongside her creative partner Pierpaolo Piccioli, Maria Grazia Chiuri helped give birth to an iconic bag in 1997 – the Baguette.

A simple stroke of genius, which features a short strap and a compact, practical shape. The name draws its inspiration from the French loaf of bread carried under the arm. Instantly recognisable, the Baguette became one of the very first “it bags” in fashion history. It has been endlessly revamped ever since.

“I return to Fendi with honour and joy, having had the privilege of beginning my career under the guidance of the house’s founders, the five sisters. Fendi has always been a forge of talents and a starting point for many creatives in the industry, thanks to the extraordinary ability of these five women to foster and nurture generations of vision and skill,” Maria Grazia Chiuri stated in a press release.

While her return feels like a natural homecoming for the designer, it marks a significant turning point for the Italian house. Maria Grazia Chiuri succeeds Silvia Venturini Fendi, a key figure of the family dynasty who took over all the collections after Karl Lagerfeld’s death in 2019. One thing is certain, this highly symbolic appointment is already stirring immense curiosity across the fashion world.