Lingerie trend: how are brands reinventing themselves?

by Anna Prudhomme.

Publié le 16 february 2025. Modifié le 19 February 2025.

Style for oneself, not for others: the case of Chantelle

Renaud Cambuzat, a photographer and artistic director with a fashion background, was appointed head of French lingerie brand Chantelle in 2017. His aim was to modernise this family business founded in the late 19th century.

For Renaud Cambuzat, the underwear industry, whose codes and offers are still stereotyped and fossilised, is an opportunity to take action and start a social transformation in that area. “The question of the body is an extremely political topic”, he declares in an interview with Numéro.

It is true that lingerie has always conveyed a powerful symbolic dimension, especially since it plays a central role in the construction and distinction between genders. For instance, the bra and panties as we know them today only emerged in the 20th century.

Before that, women wore a pair of ‘modesty hose’ under their skirts, a type of underpants with a slit at the crotch, giving direct access to the private parts. “Because the ‘closed system’ in the crotch is reserved for men. It’s the man who wears the pants!”, fashion historian Yvane Jacob recalls.

By reworking a unified brand ecosystem under the Chantelle umbrella, the company aims to represent different femininities in a contemporary way. This is particularly true for the lines Chantelle Pulpe, Chantelle X, Chantelle Easyfeel and Chantelle Lab.

Each brand aims at responding to societal movements and changing consumer trends in a complementary way. “As an established lingerie brand, we have our share of responsibility in the codes we promote and the messages we convey,” Renaud Cambuzat tells Numéro.

Chantelle X, a creative proposal whose aim is to address new seductions, will spearhead this commitment. With women’s bodies reasserting their value as the main topic, lingerie has become a new object of desire. “After the Covid-19 pandemic, we saw the emergence of new, more assertive seduction modes, reflecting the desire to reclaim one’s image and body,” the artistic director explains.

Lingerie for everyone to see

On the runway, in advertisements or for nights out in the city, underwear is the new clothing, and women are now getting in touch with their own nakedness. Livy, a young luxury lingerie brand launched by Lisa Chavy in 2017, has been offering a ready-to-wear line for a few months now.

What makes it special? The inclusion of the codes of lingerie, such as lace, transparency, or a jacket to put directly over a bra. Sporting lingerie in public spaces underlines a form of liberation and affirmation of the body.

Although the ‘over and under’ trend is not new – Jean Paul Gaultier was already having fun with it when he turned the corset into an iconic garment in the 1980s – it remains a real example of creative transgression, because it challenges established codes of dress decency to some extent.

The “no pants” trend take the trousers off

Another trend that emerged in 2022 is the “no pants” – a style that consists in swapping a pair of trousers for ultra-short, panties-like pieces.

First spotted at the Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2023 show, the “no pants” is rapidly gaining ground, thanks to celebrities like Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner in Bottega Veneta or Kristen Stewart, who have democratised this new trend, both on the street and on red carpets.

“If we take this trend and put it into the context of a long history of womenswear, there’s a sense of empowerment and liberation from societal constraints. In particular, the dress codes that forbade women to show their legs”, Yvane Jacob explains.

While it is still pretty marginal on the street, this new style represents a small revolution. At least, that’s what the press and fashion agencies are saying. “Indeed, this trend may not speak to every woman and depends on their environments. But this epiphenomenon participates in changing the established codes and represents a significant societal marker,” Renaud Cambuzat adds.

The importance of fashion designers and collaborations

In addition to the major fashion houses, emerging designers have also established themselves as the bearers of this new trend. Undressing has become a form of provocation, stemming from a disruptive approach and often supporting political ideas.

One example is the Turkish-British designer Dilara Findikoglu, whose wardrobe blends Victorian aesthetics with sado-romantic influences. Recently, she celebrated Halloween with a funeral ball where her guests, often appearing more undressed than dressed, joyfully buried toxic masculinity.

At the same time, collaborations between lingerie houses and young ready-to-wear labels are emerging in a win-win dynamic. These partnerships reflect a dynamic, that of self-affirmation as part of a modern and resolutely feminist movement.

“Collaborations with young talents illustrate our desire to breathe new life and creativity into the industry”, Chantelle’s artistic director continues. In 2024, for example, the Belgian lingerie brand collaborated with Ester Manas. Inclusive and sustainable, the winner of the exceptional 2023 ANDAM prize is committed to celebrating all body types.

From this encounter, five lingerie pieces in Calais lace were created and presented at the Paris Fashion Week. They were coupled with transparent skirts made from unsold or dead stock for a sensual play of superimpositions. “I like young designers for their patience, their convictions and their uncompromising demands,” Renaud Cambuzat concludes.

Traduction Emma Naroumbo Armaing.