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Pitti Uomo: Highlights from the 109th edition of the menswear fair
Numéro shares its takeaways from the 109th edition of the Pitti Uomo Fall/Winter 2026-2027 menswear fair, held in Florence from January 13rd to 16th, 2026.
Pitti Uomo, an inspired 109th edition
The first major event on the menswear calendar, Pitti Uomo Fall/Winter 2026-2027 ended on January 16th, 2026, in Florence. A dense, inspired 109th edition that reaffirmed the role of the fashion fair as an incubator for ideas and a showcase for emerging talent. Throwback to three standout shows.
Three standout Fall/Winter 2026-2027 shows
Shinya Kozuka, or the poetry of functionality
Inside the Fortezza da Basso, Shinya Kozuka unveiled an almost surreal world out of time. The former Central Saint Martins graduate from 2013 anchored his dreamlike aesthetic in a snow-covered landscape, inviting the audience to slow down and take it all in. Centered around a concept of “poetic workwear,” the Japanese designer’s Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection plays on contrasts. From utilitarian precision and soft silhouettes to technical details and patterns with a childlike touch. A sensitive fashion proposal where practicality is tinged with emotion.
Hed Mayner, or the art of mastering contrasts
Guest of honor for this 109th edition of Pitti Uomo, the Paris-based Israeli designer took over the former halls of Florence’s train station with a precise co-ed show. Among silk and raw wool, natural tones and metallic flashes, Hed Mayner explored the fertile tension between opposites. His remarkable command of tailoring is on full display through the geometric silhouettes with bold volumes, and especially through sumptuous pleated linings, clean and precise.
Soshi Otsuki, or the dialogue between cultures
Soshi Otsuki, 35, is the second Japanese designer invited this season to present his first European runway show. Winner of the 2025 LVMH Prize, he chose the majestic setting of the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella to unveil his collection.
Inside this historic space, his Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show reflected the dialogue he creates between his Japanese roots and 1980s Italian elegance. The designer’s admiration for Mr. Armani is not a secret. His tailoring was impeccable, with a subtle and spot-on colour palette. The audience responded with a standing ovation.
Our conclusion on Pitti Uomo Fall/Winter 2026-2027
With this 109th edition, Pitti Immagine Uomo reaffirms its trendsetting power and draws a Fall/Winter 2026-2027 wardrobe shaped by a return to classic tailoring. Assertive, refined, and resolutely contemporary.
Find more about Pitti Immagine Uomo at uomo.pittimmagine.com.
