2025 LVMH Prize: Torishéju, the designer coveted by stars (and museums) alike

Interview by Camille Bois-Martin.

Torishéju, finalist of the 2025 LVMH Prize

When she launched her brand in 2023, designer Torishéju Dumi had no intention of becoming a major name in fashion. She simply wanted to tell stories through her collections, narratives that would ultimately feed into her somewhat unconventional world.

In her studio, she designs oversized coats with fitted waists, futuristic, yet strikingly contemporary dresses… Pieces that have caught the eye of celebrities like Zendaya, who was spotted wearing one of her designs during the promotional tour for Dune in 2024. Since then, her creations have graced numerous red carpets, worn by Kendall Jenner, Paloma Elsesser, and Naomi Campbell, who opened her first show in Paris.

This early success is a testament to the originality and talent of the British designer, whose work has already been acquired by the prestigious Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York for the exhibition Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion, inaugurated last year. And her rise is showing no signs of slowing down.

When we called her, Torishéju Dumi had just returned to her London apartment after numerous trips between Paris, London, and Turkey, to prepare her next collection. Better still, she was moving studios that very day! Despite her busy schedule, she granted us a long and fascinating interview, taking us deep into the intricacies of her imagination. Interview with one of the eight finalists of the 2025 LVMH Prize.

Interview with fashion designer Torishéju Dumi

Numéro: Was becoming a fashion designer your childhood dream?

Torishéju Dumi: I actually pictured myself as an actress! I took acting classes from the age of 7 until about 18. I loved dancing, singing, wearing costumes… To be completely honest, I only considered studying fashion at the very end of my education. My mother and brother encouraged me to pursue something creative because I loved drawing and was pretty good at it. So I did a training in Art and Design at De Montfort University. I learned all sorts of things there — woodworking, ceramics, drawing… And I realized I loved working and creating with my hands. Then, I signed up for fashion history courses because my partner at the time was taking them. That’s how I discovered Alexander McQueen, John Galliano… I didn’t know anything about them, but I became passionate about their creations.

You then studied at the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London.

Yes, I enrolled there, but only attended classes for a year! I didn’t like it. I preferred to continue my studies at the London College of Fashion. My degree, which usually takes three years, took me six to complete, because I really wanted to immerse myself in the world of fashion. I took several gap years to intern at brands like Ann Demeulemeester, Celine, and Philip Lim.

From tailoring at Celine to the family spirit at Ann Demeulemeester

What are you takeaways from these experiences?

I started at Celine, which was one of the most formative experiences for me. Under Phoebe Philo [creative director of the house from 2008 to 2018, ed.], I learned the entire process of making a garment, from conception to finishing. I fell in love with the way she constructs her clothes. Every detail, even a pocket, is important. What I took away from that internship was the mastery of tailoring and the definition of what could be described as luxury clothing.

Then, I went to Antwerp, to Ann Demeulemeester’s studios. At the time [in the early 2010s, ed.], the studios were attached to the designer’s home. You could hear her grandson playing in the garden every day. It was an incredible experience because it gave me a sense of family within a team – so small, yet so devoted. I also worked for Sibling London, where I discovered the ups and downs of everyday life, and how life and business can impact a small brand.

When and why did you create your label, Torishéju?

I didn’t know what I wanted to do when I started studying fashion. After graduating, I realized that I wanted to create my own brand, but that I needed to take my time. I didn’t want to introduce a new name into the fashion world just for the sake of it. There are already so many designers and labels that, unless you’re doing something meaningful, something with a purpose, I saw no reason to add more clothes to the world. I took the time to develop my universe, my aesthetic, before launching Torishéju in 2023. I wanted to create a little world that people could relate to, not just clothes. I think today’s fashion lacks strong identities and distinct perspectives.

Torishéju: telling stories through clothing

What is your earliest memory related to fashion?

I think I’ve always loved clothing, but for a long time, I never connected it to the world of fashion. As a child, I loved dressing up with costumes and performing in them. I also grew up in a Catholic family and, when I was young, I was part of the altar service. I used to wear outfits and coats that I thought were spectacular. I felt imperial in them! [Laughs]

How do you work on your collections?

When I design a collection, there’s always a little story in my head. I can’t just create clothes. I need to visualize the person who would wear my dress or my jacket, the event they would wear it to, the aesthetic they would want to create…

What does inspire you?

I grew up surrounded by a huge wardrobe full of videotapes that my father had collected. Cinema was a passion at home, especially horror movies. I remember loving Cujo when I was around 6! I also love music like gospel and R’n’B… I’ve designed collections inspired by so many different things — from the aesthetics of the film Titanic to the vision of writer Paulo Coelho, whose books I adore. Like in theatre or cinema, I love the idea of performance and how clothes can embody a personality, a story. All my influences, mixed into my creations, tell my own story in some way.

The LVMH Prize 2025 and the future of her label

What does being a finalist of the 2025 LVMH Prize mean to you?

It means that I’m being seen, that I’m being heard. I feel quite emotionally overwhelmed. I think I haven’t fully processed the idea that people might like the things that come straight out of my imagination! It feels like I’m realizing that I’m not so crazy after all, coming up with things alone in my head. [Laughs] I struggled to communicate and be understood while growing up because of my dyslexia. I felt like I could never quite translate what I meant through words. Thanks to my clothes and this position as a finalist for the LVMH Prize, I feel like I’ve finally found my voice, and that it’s being heard and understood. I don’t really care about the outcome. I always say, if it’s meant to be, it will be. I feel very lucky above all else.

How would you like to develop your label in the future?

I’d really like to have my own store someday. I’d like to have the chance to recreate my little world in a permanent space where my clients and curious passersby could come and discover my designs and my aesthetic. First and foremost, I’d love to grow my team, have more time for myself, and do in-person interviews  rather than Zoom meetings after exhausting trips between Paris, London, and Turkey! [Laughs]