Back to the essence of clothing at Maitrepierre

Bathed in sunlight under the glass roof of Espace Commines, Alphonse Maitrepierre closes the chapter of spectacle. After presenting a Spring/Summer 2026 show paying tribute to Paul Poiret, designed in collaboration with the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the designer unveils a new collection defined by minimal cuts and an inspired narrative.

By Louise Menard.

A Maitrepierre collection inspired by Godard’s film Alphaville

“I worked on this collection as if it was a break,” Alphonse Maitrepierre tells us, still shaken with emotion, a few minutes after the end of his Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show. Entitled “Crossroads“, the collection marks a return to quieter style, in sharp contrast with his previous show presented at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs last October. The grand gestures and demonstrative effects are gone and leave some space for a condensed message. The designer emphasizes his pragmatic approach to lines and fabrics, without giving up the “little extra soul” dear to him.

Nourished by Jean-Luc Godard’s brilliant sci-fi film Alphaville (1965), a surreal dystopia in which characters wander through a futuristic city where all emotions are about to be erased, the designer orchestrates what he calls an “urban reverie.” Poems of Paul Éluard, also present in the film, are part of the setting. They stand as an intimate form of resistance to the world’s coldness. Alphonse Maitrepierre is looking for the right silhouette with tenacity and without emphasis. He advocates for a pure discourse that remains faithful to his identity.

The Maitrepierre Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show Paris Fashion Week — The Maitrepierre Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show.

A pragmatic, poetic and fluid collection

“I also worked on this collection with the intent of softening everything as much as possible, keeping only the essence of the garment or of the character I had in mind,” Alphonse Maitrepierre explains.

Striped jerseys, one of the designer’s signature pieces, ultra-fluid bustier dresses with thin strips in Alcantara, hoodies and oversized, pared-down jackets compose an almost minimalist wardrobe. The same spirit applies to the materials, since every piece has been made using recycled fabrics.

Ultimately, the Maitrepierre show feels like a comforting interlude. Here, spectacle softens to let a sense of gentleness envelops us amid the frenzy of Paris Fashion Week. In a world where humanity seems to be fragile, Maitrepierre has chosen his side.