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5 iconic fashion pieces sold at auction
On July 10th, the original Birkin bag designed by Hermès in 1984 for the actress it was named after was sold for $10 million at Sotheby’s. This iconic accessory then joined the club of legendary fashion pieces auctioned in recent years, from Marilyn Monroe’s famous JFK dress to Lady Diana’s jumper and Kate Moss’s naked dress.
Jane Birkin’s very first Hermès bag
It is arguably one of the most famous handbags in the history of fashion. So much so that it even has its own Wikipedia page. It was specifically created for the actress and singer Jane Birkin by Hermès in 1984. Since then, the bag has been released in countless versions and sold for thousands of euros (on a waiting list) by the French fashion house. While it was originally designed to meet the star’s needs, she wanted a chic, but above all practical, tote bag. It has since become a strong, highly-coveted symbol.
Marilyn Monroe’s famous “JFK dress”
Marilyn Monroe’s sultry, semi-sheer, sequin dress designed by Bob Mackie is one of these unforgettable and iconic fashion pieces. In 2022, the dress made the headlines once again at the MET Gala. Kim Kardashian wore the original design on loan from the Ripley’s Believe It Or Not muséum, where it is kept. Although the garment was returned almost intact – a few seams were damaged as the star moved – the media spotlight was undeniable.
Worn by Marilyn Monroe in 1962, the ensemble recalls one of the greatest American scandals of the mid-20th century – the actress and singer’s performance for President John F. Kennedy’s birthday in Madison Square Garden. Amid persistent rumours about their relationship, her sensual rendition of “Happy Birthday” in a tight, scandalously sexy dress left an indelible mark on the collective memory. That dress has repeatedly broken auction records. First in 1999, when it sold for $1.3 million in New York. Then in 2016, when it reached $4.8 million in Los Angeles.
Lady Diana’s sheep jumper
In June 1981, a 19-year-old Diana Spencer announced her engagement to Prince Charles. Shy and reserved, she hadn’t developed the confidence of the future Lady Di yet. The one who would go on to deliver countless iconic fashion statements throughout the 1980s and 1990s. Still, she was already attracting the attention of the British and international press. Just like when she attended a small polo match in Windsor, where her fiancé played. Unintentionally, she launched what would become a long series of memorable looks. Out with the formal attire typically worn by members of the royal family while attending such events, Diana showed up in a red jumper with a white sheep pattern. Amid the crowd of white figures stood a lone black sheep… sparking a wave speculation in the press.
The next day, newspapers interpreted it as a metaphor for the young Diana Spencer’s status within the royal family – a lone outsider adrift among the rigid protocols and cold indifference of British royalty. She was the black sheep of the royal family. While many experts hesitate to affirm that the jumper carried such symbolism for Lady Diana at the time, another appearance of the Princess wearing the same garment in 1983 left little room for doubt. Elevated to the rank of fashion icon, a copy of the jumper is now part of the Victoria & Albert Museum’s collections. The original resurfaced at auction in September 2023. It sold for $1.1 million, well beyond its initial estimate of $50,000 to $80,000. That sale once again highlighted Diana’s enduring influence on fashion, 25 years after her tragic passing.
Kate Moss’s naked dress
An icon of the 1990s and 2000s, Kate Moss is synonymous with countless legendary fashion statements. One in particular stands out and is all the more memorable because of the scandal it caused over thirty years ago. At just 19, the young British model was already gracing major magazine covers and turning heads in the most prestigious fashion houses. The rising star was attending a party hosted by her modelling agency, Elite, for the “Look of the Year” award. The American fashion elite gathered in their finest attire. Kate Moss opted for a long, delicate, backless, gray slip dress by designer Liza Bruce.
Minimalist in style, the so-called “naked dress” made waves. The sheer fabric revealed her black thong underneath and the dress was paired with only flip-flops and a cigarette casually held in the model’s fingers… Bare-faced and with messy hair, Kate Moss would wake up the next day to find her photo in magazines everywhere across the world. The original dress has since joined the permanent collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, but a nearly identical replica caused a stir on the auction market in April 2024. Starting at £200, the piece far exceeded estimates, ultimately selling for £2,200 at the auction house Kerry Taylor.
Martin Margiela’s wool suit
Both enigmatic and fascinating, Martin Margiela has left a lasting mark in the history of fashion. Through spectacular runway shows and unexpected designs, the Belgian designer, now turned artist, is one of those rare figures whose vintage creations are highly-coveted. That was clearly last January, when Maurice Auction organized its latest auction. It featured items from the private collection of sisters Angela and Elena Picozzi.
The sale included 270 lots by the designer, ranging from paper patterns and sketches to garments from the Martin Margiela’s earliest shows. All of them were sold. The highlight of the sale was the black-and-white polka-dot wool suit from the Spring/Summer 1990 collection. The piece captivated bidders and achieved a world record for an ensemble by the designer, selling for €101,400.
