All you need to know about the great turnover in creative directions

By Camille Bois-Martin, 

and Nathan Merchadier.

Over the past year, the fashion world has undergone an unprecedented wave of change. The reason? A rapid succession of new creative directors at the head of major luxury houses. And all at a frantic pace.

It all began in March 2024, when Pierpaolo Piccioli left Valentino after 25 years of loyal service. His departure marked the beginning of what is now referred to as the “fashion mercato“. A term borrowed from the world of football and its transfer markets of professional players between clubs.

There is no doubt that this major turnover in fashion will have a lasting impact on the luxury industry, both on the strategic and creative levels. From Versace and Gucci to Balenciaga and Mugler, Numéro takes a closer look.

Meryll Rogge appointed at Marni

It’s been a busy year, or more precisely, a busy month of July for Meryll Rogge. Just a few weeks after winning the 2025 ANDAM Grand Prize with her brand, the Belgian designer has just been named as the new creative director of Marni. The former student of the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and trainee in Marc Jacobs’ ateliers succeeds Francesco Risso (appointed since 2018), thus opening an entirely new chapter in her already rich career.

Departures and arrivals at Mugler

While rumors of a major change at Mugler had been spreading for several weeks, it is now official. On March 25th, the fashion and fragrance brand owned by L’Oréal announced both a departure and a new arrival. The American designer Casey Cadwallader, appointed in 2017, is stepping down and will be replaced by Miguel Castro Freitas.

Though little known to the general public, the Portuguese designer has an impressive background. First at Dior with John Galliano, then at Yves Saint Laurent with Stefano Pilati, and at Lanvin with Alber Elbaz. Returning to Dior during Raf Simons’s tenure, he focused on tailoring before joining Dries Van Noten as head of the women’s studio.

Loewe entrusts Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez

Just a week after Jonathan Anderson’s departure was made official, Loewe had already revealed the names of his successors last March – Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. The two pioneers of New York fashion became known through their label Proenza Schouler, founded in 2002.

With their minimalist style and reputation as brainy, cool designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have won over the industry. Now that they are no longer the creative directors of their own brand, they have to face the daunting task of succeeding one of the greatest designers of their generation…

Jonathan Anderson leaves Loewe’s creative direction

Rumours had been spreading for several months. After eleven years as creative director at Loewe, Irish designer Jonathan Anderson was said to be about to step down. That has now been confirmed. On March 17th, 2025, the Spanish house announced in press release that the former London College of Fashion student was leaving that position.

Earlier this June, the French house Dior revealed that he would be taking over the men’s, women’s, and couture collections. Thus, succeeding Kim Jones and Maria Grazia Chiuri. After theur departure from their New York label Proenza Schouler, which they founded in 2002, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are now expected to succeed Jonathan Anderson at Loewe…

Demna leaves Balenciaga for Gucci

While Donatella’s departure from Versace sent shock waves through the fashion world, Demna‘s appointment as creative director at Gucci, announced on March 13th, also raised many questions. Why would the Georgian designer leave his position to join the equally prestigious Italian house?

Following Sabato de Sarno’s departure from Gucci last February, the studio stepped in to present a successful transitional collection at the Milan Fashion Week. A few weeks later, in May, Balenciaga announced the arrival of Pierpaolo Piccioli, who had been replaced earlier this year by Alessandro Michele at Valentino.

Dario Vitale replaces Donatella Versace as Versace’s artistic director

Just a few day after presenting her Versace Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection revisiting the golden age of the house in Milan, Donatella Versace bowed out. Her career spans three decades of highly-scrutinized designs and runway shows. The famous Italian designer is now handing over Versace‘s artistic direction to designer Dario Vitale. The latter earned his spurs at Dsquared2 and Bottega Veneta, before joining Miu Miu in 2010.

An appointment that makes sense when we know that Prada, which owns Miu Miu, is about to finalise the acquisition of Versace from the Capri holdings group for 1.5 billion euros. In a press release published on March 13th, 2025, Donatella Versace announced that she would be chief ambassador of the brand.

Matthieu Blazy, Chanel’s new artistic director

In June 2024, Virginie Viard, who succeeded Karl Lagerfeld’s twenty-year reign, announced her departure from the Chanel ateliers. It was followed by six months of speculation and hopes about the new name who would accept the heavy legacy of the French house. Finally, last December, Matthieu Blazy was officially appointed as the new artistic director. The news came with the announcement of his departure from Bottega Veneta.

Sarah Burton joins the creative direction at Givenchy

After 26 years at Alexander McQueen, including 14 years alongside the late founder, Sarah Burton said goodbye to the English house in September 2023. A year after Naomi Campbell shed tears during her last show, the designer shared the news of her appointment as artistic director at Givenchy last September. She is now succeeding Matthew Williams. For the highly-anticipated Fall-Winter 2025-2026 Paris Fashion Week, she presented a stunning, promising first show…

Kim Jones leaves Dior men’s studio

If rumors are spreading around potential departures and arrivals in the biggest fashion houses, Kim Jones ‘ departure from the Dior men’s studio came as a surprise. The news came out last January, a few days after his last show for the house. In office since 2018, the British designer is leaving a lasting imprint on the brand’s identity. For now, nobody knows where he will go next…

Louise Trotter joins Bottega Veneta

A discreet figure in the fashion world, Louise Trotter is nevertheless one of the most talented fashion designers of her generation. After reviving Lacoste between 2018 and 2023, then resurrecting Carven from 2023 to 2024, the British designer is preparing to take over Bottega Veneta, succeeding Matthieu Blazy.

The Proenza Schouler duo step down from from their own brand

At the head of their label Proenza Schouler since its creation in 2002, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez announced their departure in January 2025. A rare longevity in the world of fashion, especially when it comes to the founding designers of a house. That situation puts a question mark over the future of the New York brand. As for the duo, rumours suggest a possible appointment at Loewe…

Glenn Martens, new creative director at Maison Margiela

While he has shone as the artistic director of Y/Project since 2013, and more recently through his acclaimed collections for Diesel since 2020, Glenn Martens recently bowed out. Weeks after his departure, the first brand announced it would closing its doors. Meanwhile, the designer officially continued to work for the second.

Like some of the greatest designers, including Karl Lagerfeld and Raf Simons, the Belgian designer is now dividing his time between several prestigious houses. And most notably at Maison Margiela, where he is creative director now. A daunting task, especially following John Galliano’s departure… But one he handled brilliantly in his debut haute couture show for the house last week.

Sabato de Sarno’s departure from Gucci

He spent only two years at the head of Gucci’s men’s and women’s collections. A few days ago, Sabato de Sarno announced that he was sleaving the famous Italian house. A surprising and hasty decision, which comes shortly after the departure of Alessandro Michele in 2022, and the long year of speculation that followed. While we don’t know for sure what will be the Neapolitan designer next journey, we already regret the polished and colorful aesthetic he infused into the brand.

Michael Rider, new pilot of the Céline workshops

Since 2018, designer Hedi Slimane has been steering Céline with an iron fist. However, last October, the house announced his departure, and the arrival of Michael Rider at the head of its workshops. Former artistic director of the women’s collections at Polo Ralph Lauren, the American fashion designer also worked at Balenciaga alongside Nicolas Ghesquière.

Carven appoints Mark Thomas

The appointment of designer Mark Thomas at Carven has brought back the brand at the heart of the Paris Fashion Week. Although it did not appear on last season’s calendar after Louise Trotter’s departure, that news allowed it to stay in the spotlight.

Former graduate of Central Saint Martins, the London-based designer had previously worked at Burberry, Givenchy, and Neil Barrett. He then led the artistic direction of Helmut Lang from 2017 to 2019 and joined Lacoste that same year. His contemporary aesthetic with a touch of classicism promises to carry forward the renewal initiated by his predecessor.

Simone Bellotti replaces Lucie and Luke Meier at Jil Sander

A few hours after Jil Sander’s Fall/Winter 2025–2026 show presented in Milan ten days ago, Lucie and Luke Meier announced their departure. The duo held their position as creative directors since 2017. The collection was steeped in nostalgia, leaving the brand’s future shrouded in uncertainty… Until March 10th!

That day, Simone Bellotti‘s arrival was made official. The latter had previously worked at Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, and Gucci for over 15 years. Most recently, he had been at the head Bally‘s collections in Milan. The same city where he is now preparing to join Jil Sander‘s ateliers.