{"id":790304,"date":"2026-01-29T16:26:10","date_gmt":"2026-01-29T15:26:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/numero.com\/?p=790304"},"modified":"2026-01-29T16:26:14","modified_gmt":"2026-01-29T15:26:14","slug":"voyeurism-and-couture-alessandro-micheles-masterstroke-at-valentino","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/fashion\/fashion-week-en\/voyeurism-and-couture-alessandro-micheles-masterstroke-at-valentino\/","title":{"rendered":"Voyeurism and couture: Alessandro Michele\u2019s masterstroke at Valentino"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=hiknbu9r5mw<\/a><\/div>\r\n
The Valentino Spring\/Summer 2026 couture show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

A flamboyant, daring Valentino couture show<\/h2>\n\n

January 28th, 2026, marked Alessandro Michele<\/strong>\u2019s second couture show for Valentino<\/strong><\/a>, following the highly anticipated and widely praised debuts of Jonathan Anderson<\/strong> at Dior<\/strong><\/a> and Matthieu Blazy<\/strong> at Chanel<\/strong><\/a>. Yet, one can note that his Specula Mundi<\/em> collection was presented in a particular context. Just ten days ago, Valentino<\/strong> Garavani<\/strong><\/a>, founder of the Italian house, unfortunately passed away at the age of 93…<\/p>\n\n

Although it would have been difficult to design an overt tribute collection given the timing, Alessandro Michele<\/a><\/strong> nevertheless managed to echo the Roman couturier<\/strong>‘s legacy through bold couture silhouettes<\/strong>, filled with cultural references, and more particularly to Hollywood\u2019s golden age.<\/p>\n\n

Inside the dark space of the Paris Tennis Club in the 16th arrondissement, the designer installed a dozen wooden cylindrical booths<\/strong>, inspired by the Kaiserpanorama<\/em><\/strong>, a 19th-century optical viewing device. Guests were invited to place their heads into small square openings to discover the sixty flamboyant silhouettes<\/strong> of this new couture collection.<\/p>\n\n

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\"The\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
The Valentino Spring\/Summer 2026 couture show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

A reflection on contemporary voyeurism<\/h2>\n\n

At first glance, these circular openings might remind us of peep shows. A reading that\u2019s admittedly a touch provocative, but one that could easily align with Alessandro Michele<\/strong>\u2019s often eccentric universe. His Fall\/Winter 2025-2026 show<\/strong><\/a> for Valentino took place in public baths, for instance. Regarding this couture collection<\/strong>, however, it quickly became clear that the message goes far beyond provocation\u2026\u201cEach person looked alone, yet everyone watched together, participating in<\/em>\u00a0a public ritual founded on the isolation of the gaze<\/em>,” the designer wrote in his show notes. Through this original and unsettling setup, Alessandro Michele<\/strong> encourages a more attentive observation of the clothes, while questioning our modern relationship to vision, voyeurism, and the exposition of images amplified by social media. \u201cHaute couture seeks to offer a vision defined by a different temporality, composed of slowness, closeness and concentration<\/em>,\u201d he reminded us.<\/p>\n\n

Dans la note du d\u00e9fil\u00e9, le cr\u00e9ateur explique : \u201cChacun se trouvait seul \u00e0 regarder, mais tous regardaient au m\u00eame moment : un rite public fond\u00e9 sur l\u2019isolement du regard<\/em>.\u201d \u00c0 travers cette mise en sc\u00e8ne originale et d\u00e9routante, Alessandro Michele<\/strong> permet ainsi une observation plus attentive des v\u00eatements, tout en interrogeant notre rapport contemporain au regard, au voyeurisme et \u00e0 la surexposition des images amplifi\u00e9es par les r\u00e9seaux sociaux. \u201cLa Haute Couture veut offrir une temporalit\u00e9 diff\u00e9rente, faite de lenteur et de proximit\u00e9<\/em>\u201d, rappelle-t-il.<\/p>\n\n

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The Valentino Spring\/Summer 2026 couture show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

A collection inspired by the golden age of cinema<\/h2>\n\n

While the staging may surprise some, the signature of the Roman designer, known for reviving flamboyant romanticism during his time at Gucci<\/strong><\/a>, is instantly recognizable. The richness of the embroidery<\/strong>, dramatic headpieces<\/strong>, and the oversized accessories<\/strong> adorned with feathers in bright colours are central to this couture collection<\/strong>. From the very first look, a dangerously low-cut red gown, the tone is set. Alessandro Michele<\/strong><\/a> infuses the show with a mood steeped in nostalgia, drawing from the golden age of cinema and Hollywood glamour.<\/p>\n\n

A fascination that the designer openly embraces: \u201cThere are many references to that era, because I was trying to go back. It is one of my obsessions<\/em>\u201d. With Specula Mundi<\/em>, Alessandro Michele<\/strong> ultimately asserts his own personal vision of haute couture at Valentino<\/strong><\/a>, orchestrating a dialogue between past and present in every silhouette.<\/p>\n\n

All the looks from the Valentino Spring\/Summer 2026 couture show<\/h3>\n\n
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The Valentino Spring\/Summer 2026 couture show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A flamboyant, daring Valentino couture show January 28th, 2026, marked Alessandro Michele\u2019s second couture show […]<\/p>\n

Read More… from Voyeurism and couture: Alessandro Michele\u2019s masterstroke at Valentino<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":11,"featured_media":789916,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[68,16,67,2],"tags":[2312,10273,69,1792],"class_list":["post-790304","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","category-fashion-week","category-fashion-week-en","category-mode","tag-alessandro-michele-en","tag-fashion-week-haute-couture-printemps-ete-2026","tag-parade","tag-valentino-en"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nAlessandro Michele weaves his couture story at Valentino<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"At the Valentino couture show, Alessandro Michele questions the notion of voyeurism through a vibrant collection and surprising setting.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" 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