{"id":739783,"date":"2025-10-07T16:15:50","date_gmt":"2025-10-07T14:15:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/numero.com\/non-classifiee\/glenn-martens-orchestrates-a-revival-at-margiela\/"},"modified":"2025-10-07T16:16:51","modified_gmt":"2025-10-07T14:16:51","slug":"glenn-martens-orchestrates-a-revival-at-margiela","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/fashion\/fashion-week-en\/glenn-martens-orchestrates-a-revival-at-margiela\/","title":{"rendered":"Glenn Martens orchestrates a revival at Margiela"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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The Margiela Spring\/Summer 2026 show<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

A runway show in the spirit of Martin Margiela<\/h2>\n\n

After the noteworthy debuts of Jack McCollough<\/strong> and Lazaro Hernandez<\/strong> at Loewe<\/strong>, and just hours before Pierpaolo Piccioli<\/strong>\u2019s first steps at Balenciaga<\/strong><\/a>, this Spring\/Summer 2026 Fashion Week<\/strong> also marked Glenn Martens<\/strong>‘ debut at the helm of Margiela’s ready-to-wear collections. Drawing from the brand’s archives, the Belgian designer and creative director at Diesel<\/strong><\/a> extended his exploration of a daring, conceptual fashion.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

From the opening of the show, the reference was clear. Echoing Martin Margiela\u2019s Spring\/Summer 1990 show<\/strong>, Glenn Martens<\/strong><\/a> invited a children\u2019s orchestra to perform the soundtrack live. Back in 1989, the house’s founder used to reserve the front-row seats of his show for children from Paris\u2019s 20th arrondissement, captured in the iconic shot The Children Play with the Models<\/em><\/a> by photographer Jean-Claude Coutausse<\/strong>. Thirty-six years later, Glenn Martens<\/strong> reimagined the scene with a new idea, The Children play for the models<\/em>. A subtle way of reminding us that even as time goes by, Margiela<\/strong>\u2019s irreverent spirit remains intact.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

Another striking nod to the house\u2019s aesthetic of anonymity? When models appeared with the emblematic \u201cFour Stitches\u201d on their lips, revamped as metallic mouth guards or cheek retractors. A disturbing detail that standardizes faces, while disrupting the codes of traditional runway shows.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

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The Margiela Spring\/Summer 2026 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Memory and transformation at Margiela<\/h2>\n\n

Beyond that, Glenn Martens<\/strong> delivers a masterfully composed collection, balancing tailoring precision with inventive play on volumes. Leather, wool, and of course denim – the designer\u2019s signature fabric – interweave to offer sculptural silhouettes. The suit is remade with a new rounded shoulder construction and armholes that follow the natural lines of the body, while trousers feature dramatically dropped crotches, lending a distinct Y2K<\/strong><\/a> spirit to the looks.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

In the vein of his couture collection<\/a> presented at the same venue a few months earlier, he reinterprets a floral wallpaper motif from the 16th century, printed on knitwear as some sort of revamped tapestry. Other details pay tribute to the house\u2019s heritage. Pieces of tape affixed to a dress remind us of the leather tabi shoes tied with adhesive tape from the Spring\/Summer 1996 collection. Meanwhile, flat cowboy boots mimic the ballet flats designed by Martin Margiela<\/strong> in 2000.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

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The Margiela Spring\/Summer 2026 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Glenn Martens asserts his vision<\/h2>\n\n

With this first ready-to-wear collection, Glenn Martens<\/strong> makes a remarkably sharp entry into Margiela’s universe. Striking a balance between tribute and reinvention, he lays the outlines for a house in constant motion. Set against a backdrop of controversy, weeks after Miley Cyrus<\/a><\/strong> was announced as the brand\u2019s first-ever ambassador, this bold rebirth breaks with Margiela\u2019s long-standing tradition of anonymity.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

All the looks from the Margiela Spring\/Summer 2026 show<\/h2>\n\n
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The Margiela Spring\/Summer 2026 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A runway show in the spirit of Martin Margiela After the noteworthy debuts of Jack […]<\/p>\n

Read More… from Glenn Martens orchestrates a revival at Margiela<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":11,"featured_media":737644,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[68,67],"tags":[9322,3074,8135],"class_list":["post-739783","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","category-fashion-week-en","tag-fashion-week-printemps-ete-2026-en","tag-glenn-martens-en","tag-margiela-en"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nRebirth at Margiela's Spring\/Summer 2026 show<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Glenn Martens unveils his Margiela's Spring\/Summer 2026 show. A bold tribute to the house's heritage, blending modernity with memory.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/fashion\/fashion-week-en\/glenn-martens-orchestrates-a-revival-at-margiela\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Rebirth at Margiela's Spring\/Summer 2026 show\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Glenn Martens unveils his Margiela's Spring\/Summer 2026 show. 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