{"id":738959,"date":"2025-10-06T14:40:20","date_gmt":"2025-10-06T12:40:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/numero.com\/non-classifiee\/balenciaga-pierpaolo-picciolis-breathtaking-debut-show-between-rupture-and-rebirth\/"},"modified":"2025-10-06T15:44:29","modified_gmt":"2025-10-06T13:44:29","slug":"balenciaga-pierpaolo-picciolis-breathtaking-debut-show-between-rupture-and-rebirth","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/fashion\/fashion-week-en\/balenciaga-pierpaolo-picciolis-breathtaking-debut-show-between-rupture-and-rebirth\/","title":{"rendered":"Balenciaga: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s breathtaking debut show between rupture and rebirth"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/live\/Nq-taA3DQEE?si=VuUl2QjcPz3Y_-0E<\/a><\/div><\/figure>\n\n

Farewell Demna, buongiorno Pierpaolo<\/h2>\n\n

On Saturday, October 4th, at 8 pm, the Laennec Hospital on Rue de S\u00e8vres became the stage for Pierpaolo Piccioli<\/strong>\u2019s debut Balenciaga show<\/strong>. Within this Louis XIII-style building dating back to the 17th century, the Italian designer unveiled his first collection. An inaugural statement that clearly broke away from his predecessor\u2019s aesthetic. And one that was met with a moving standing ovation\u2026<\/p><\/p>\n\n

The choice of venue was highly symbolic. Since 2016, the Laennec site has been home to the headquarters of the Kering luxury group<\/strong>. Last July, it hosted a retrospective exhibition dedicated to Demna\u2019s ten-year tenure as creative director of the house.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

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The Balenciaga Spring\/Summer 2026 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

This Balenciaga show was undoubtedly one of the most anticipated events of the Spring\/Summer 2026 Fashion Week<\/a><\/strong>. So much so that the week was already being characterised as historic before it even began. And with good reason, since no fewer than eight designers were presenting their debut collections for a fashion house. Demna<\/strong><\/a> himself kicked off the season in Milan on September 22nd, opening his first chapter at Gucci<\/strong>.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

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These series of debuts have highlighted a clear divide between two creative directions<\/strong> – one valuing continuity<\/strong>, while the other initiating rupture<\/strong>. At Loewe<\/strong> and Bottega Veneta<\/strong>, Jack McCollough<\/strong> and Lazaro Hernandez<\/strong>, along with Louise Trotter<\/strong><\/a>, opted to carry forward the legacy of their predecessors. In contrast, Jonathan Anderson<\/strong><\/a> at Dior<\/strong><\/a> and Pierpaolo Piccioli<\/strong><\/a> at Balenciaga<\/strong><\/a> chose to write a new chapter. Farewell Demna, buongiorno Pierpaolo!<\/p> \n \n<\/div> \n<\/div> \n<\/div> \n<\/div> \n<\/div> \n<\/div> \n<\/article><\/p>\n\n

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The Balenciaga Spring\/Summer 2026 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

A double challenge at Balenciaga<\/h3>\n\n

For Pierpaolo Piccioli<\/strong>, the challenge is actually twofold. His first and the most obvious mission is to sell<\/strong>. Under Demna<\/strong>, Balenciaga<\/strong><\/a> built a large, loyal community, while achieving exceptional financial results. The house founded in 1919 crossed the billion-euro mark in revenue<\/strong> – rising from 185 million in 2018<\/strong> to 927 million in 2019<\/strong>, then to 1.18 billion in 202<\/strong>1.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

But Piccioli<\/strong>\u2019s second mission is likely to be the more sensitive. The Roman designer, who was creative director at Valentino<\/strong><\/a> until 2024, spent twenty-five years working for the Italian house\u2019s studios. After joining the accessories department in 1999, he co-led Valentino<\/strong> alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri<\/strong> starting in 2008, before taking the reins solo in 2016.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

Much like Sarah Burton<\/strong> – formerly at McQueen<\/strong> and now at Givenchy<\/strong> – Pierpaolo Piccioli\u2019s aesthetic remains closely associated with Valentino. It\u2019s a signature style he must now reinvent for Balenciaga<\/strong>\u2026<\/p><\/p>\n\n

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The Balenciaga Spring\/Summer 2026 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

A divisive first runway show<\/h2>\n\n

To say that Pierpaolo Piccioli<\/strong>\u2019s debut for Balenciaga<\/strong> has divided the audience would be an understatement. While Demna\u2019s loyalists may not find themselves in this Spring\/Summer 2026 collection<\/strong>, his critics have welcomed the return to couture elegance that defines the brand\u2019s heritage.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

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To borrow a popular phrase on social media: \u201cHaters gonna hate<\/em>.\u201d In other words, there will always be criticism. One might suppose that, if Piccioli was chosen to succeed Demna, it was precisely to tell a new story<\/strong>.<\/p> \n \n<\/div> \n<\/div> \n<\/div> \n<\/div> \n<\/div> \n<\/div> \n<\/article><\/p>\n\n

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The Balenciaga Spring\/Summer 2026 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Pierpaolo Piccioli pays a brilliant tribute to Crist\u00f3bal Balenciaga<\/h3>\n\n

As stated in the show notes: \u201cPierpaolo Piccioli\u2019s first collection as creative director of Balenciaga pays tribute to this essential component [couture, ed.] of the house and Crist\u00f3bal Balenciaga\u2019s work, by translating it into the present. This is not homage, but recalibration<\/em>.\u201d Thus, the Italian designer returns to the origins of the house.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

Nicknamed the \u201ccouturier of couturiers<\/em>\u201d by his peers, Crist\u00f3bal Balenciaga<\/strong> [1895\u20131972] introduced a radically new approach to couture<\/strong>. Precise and uncompromising, the son of a tailor born on the Spanish Basque Country crafted garments like no one else. The latter’s technical vision is what designer Pierpaolo Piccioli brings to the forefront here.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

Architectural, yet weightless cuts. Refined, yet bold silhouettes. The centuries-old know-how of haute couture is revamped in a modern wardrobe. A nod to the founder, who ceased all activity in 1968, precisely because ready-to-wear was on the rise. In terms of fabrics, the iconic Gazar fabric created by Balenciaga in 1958 made a comeback in a lighter, but equally structured version.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

Finally, far from wiping the slate clean of his predecessors\u2019 work, Pierpaolo Piccioli includes subtle nods to both Nicolas Ghesqui\u00e8re<\/a> – creative director at Balenciaga from 1997 to 2012 – and Demna<\/strong>, with pieces like the City bag<\/strong> and oversized sunglasses taking the whole face.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

All the looks from the Balenciaga Spring\/Summer 2026 show<\/h2>\n\n
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The Balenciaga Spring\/Summer 2026 show by Pierpaolo Piccioli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Farewell Demna, buongiorno Pierpaolo On Saturday, October 4th, at 8 pm, the Laennec Hospital on […]<\/p>\n

Read More… from Balenciaga: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s breathtaking debut show between rupture and rebirth<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":737404,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[68,67],"tags":[2020,9322,9097],"class_list":["post-738959","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","category-fashion-week-en","tag-balenciaga-en","tag-fashion-week-printemps-ete-2026-en","tag-pierpaolo-piccioli-en"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nPierpaolo Piccioli's debut show for Balenciaga<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Pierpaolo Piccioli\u2019s debut show for Balenciaga marks a deliberate break from Demna and foreshadows the rebirth of Crist\u00f3bal\u2019s legacy.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, 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