{"id":711749,"date":"2025-09-08T11:44:29","date_gmt":"2025-09-08T09:44:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/numero.com\/?p=711749"},"modified":"2025-08-07T18:03:06","modified_gmt":"2025-08-07T16:03:06","slug":"designers-who-will-present-their-debut-show-in-september-at-the-fashion-week","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/fashion\/designers-who-will-present-their-debut-show-in-september-at-the-fashion-week\/","title":{"rendered":"Designers who will present their debut show in September at the Fashion Week"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"designers\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>
The first Dior Men show by Jonathan Anderson presented in June 2025. \u00a9 Dior.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

The end of the \u201cfashion mercato\u201d?<\/h2>\n\n

Last June, Jonathan Anderson<\/strong>\u2019s debut show<\/a> for Dior<\/strong> took the fashion world by storm. With a limited guest list and journalists forced to follow the event remotely (and live) so as not to miss a thing, the show marked a new era both for the house and for the designer himself. After twelve years at Loewe<\/strong>, which he turned into one of the decade\u2019s most coveted labels, the Irishman kicked off the season of debut shows.<\/p>\n\n

A long-awaited moment in the fashion industry, which has recently been rocked by waves of appointments and dismissals of artistic directors. After endless anticipation, countless rumors, and a few surprise revelations, the time has finally come to discover the debut collections of the new designers now heading these fashion houses. Let’s officially and finally end the \u201cfashion mercato<\/a>.\u201d The Spring\/Summer 2026 Fashion Week is set to be a true marathon. From Gucci to Balenciaga and Chanel, here are the designers presenting their debut collection this fall.<\/p>\n\n

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\"Demna,\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"the\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
Portrait of Demna photographed by BFRND and a silhouette from the Balenciaga Spring\/Summer 2025 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Demna for Gucci <\/h2>\n\n

His beginnings: Demna<\/a><\/strong> is one of those fashion designers adored by both his peers and the general public. A major figure in contemporary fashion, he originally received an education\u2026 in finance. Driven by passion, he eventually enrolled at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp<\/strong> and graduated in 2006. That school counts Martin Margiela<\/strong><\/a>, Raf Simons<\/strong><\/a>, and Dries Van Noten<\/strong><\/a> among its alumni.<\/p>\n\n

What followed was a bold and brilliant career, marked by his flair for irony\u2014he landed his first job at Martin Margiela by sending in his portfolio inside a Don Giovanni pizza box. After a stint at Louis Vuitton<\/strong> under Marc Jacobs<\/strong>, he launched his own label, Vetements<\/strong>, in 2015. Its disruptive aesthetic paved the way for his appointment as creative director of Balenciaga<\/strong><\/a>. The rest is history.<\/p>\n\n

His signature:<\/strong> While Demna\u2019s visionary approach reshaped Balenciaga\u2019s identity, it also left a lasting mark on the fashion world at large. Between controversies and striking visuals, the designer has defined a sharply tailored silhouette\u2014its powerful attitude sculpted through carefully engineered volumes at the shoulders, torso, and legs. His style fuses couture and streetwear, dominated by oversized proportions, ironic motifs, and subversive cuts.<\/p>\n\n

A debut show in Milan on September 23, 2025<\/h3>\n\n

His muses:<\/strong> Thanks to Demna<\/strong>, Kim Kardashian<\/strong><\/a> gradually made her way into the exclusive world of luxury fashion. Yet while the American star may be one of his muses, Isabelle Huppert<\/strong><\/a> is undoubtedly the numero 1 muse. A fixture at his shows, starring in his campaigns, and regularly wearing his designs on the red carpet, the French actress has become inseparable from Demna and Balenciaga. The question now is whether she will follow him to Gucci<\/a><\/strong>\u2026<\/p>\n\n

Why we can\u2019t wait:<\/strong> After his moving final haute couture show<\/a> last June, Demna is wasting no time between his exit and his new post. While he had hinted behind the scenes that he wouldn\u2019t show a collection before March 2026, the official Milan Fashion Week calendar confirms that Gucci will present a show on September 23rd in Milan<\/strong>. The house, left without a creative director since Sabato de Sarno<\/strong>\u2019s early departure in spring -following the flamboyant Alessandro Michele<\/strong>\u2019s reign (now at Valentino) – is now beginning a new chapter.<\/p>\n\n

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\"the\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
Portrait of Pierpaolo Piccioli (\u00a9 David Sims) and a silhouette from the Valentino Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2022-2023 show. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Pierpaolo Piccioli for Balenciaga<\/h2>\n\n

His beginnings:<\/strong> Pierpaolo Piccioli has been active in the fashion world since the late 1990s\u2014specifically within the realm of Italy\u2019s major fashion houses, whose ateliers he has frequented for over a quarter-century. He began at Fendi<\/a><\/strong> in 1999, while also joining the accessories department at Valentino<\/strong><\/a>, where he eventually co-directed the collections with Maria Grazia Chiuri<\/strong><\/a> from 2008. When she departed for Dior<\/a><\/strong> in 2016, the Roman designer took over as sole artistic director of Valentino<\/strong>, a position he held until March 2024.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

A rare longevity in the industry, made possible by his sensitive approach to fashion. At Valentino, he developed collections that ran counter to the spectacle-driven logic dominating most runways, offering instead an aesthetic rooted in the brand\u2019s archives and craftsmanship. His silhouettes were simple yet elegant, meticulously crafted down to the last detail.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

His signature:<\/strong> Color-block looks<\/strong> have become his hallmark over recent seasons\u2014starting with Pink PPP<\/strong>: a custom shade of pink developed with Pantone to replace Valentino\u2019s iconic red. First seen in a full collection, then across accessories, it became inextricably linked with the Italian house. But above all, Pierpaolo Piccioli<\/strong><\/a> stands out for his poetic vision, steeped in romance and elegance. Whether tailored or flowing, his cuts flatter the body beautifully, and his looks are generally stripped of accessories to let the clothing speak for itself.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

A debut show in Paris on October 4, 2025<\/h3>\n\n

His muses:<\/strong> While young model Kaia Gerber<\/strong> often opened his recent Valentino shows, Pierpaolo Piccioli champions a pared-back fashion sensibility without a defining muse\u2014his collections speak for themselves. That said, he counts among his close friends and muses actress Florence Pugh<\/strong><\/a> – frequently on the front rows and often dressed in his creations – and singer FKA Twigs<\/a>. Strong figures who reflect the designer\u2019s own outspoken political engagement both in Italy and abroad.<\/p>\n\n

Why we can\u2019t wait:<\/strong> Since his departure from Valentino<\/strong> a year and a half ago, Piccioli has kept the fashion world guessing about his next move. Especially since he had never left Rome\u2014or Valentino\u2019s studios\u2014since his beginnings in 1999. His decision to leave was both surprising and bold, ultimately bringing him to Paris, where he now takes the reins at Balenciaga<\/strong>, succeeding Demna<\/strong>. While their visions are markedly different, they share a common focus on tailoring<\/strong>\u2014setting the stage for what is likely to be a striking new era for the French house. All eyes on October 4, 2025, the date of his debut show<\/strong> in Paris.<\/p>\n\n

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\"Matthieu\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"The\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
Portrait of Matthieu Blazy (\u00a9 Dana Lixenberg) and a silhouette from the Bottega Veneta Fall\/Winter 2022-2023 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Matthieu Blazy for Chanel<\/h2>\n\n

His beginnings:<\/strong> Less widely known than figures like Jonathan Anderson<\/a> or Demna, Matthieu Blazy<\/strong> nonetheless ranks among the most admired and respected names in fashion today. Although he rose to greater prominence with his appointment at Bottega Veneta<\/strong> in 2021, the French designer had long been working behind the scenes at some of the most prestigious houses. A graduate of La Cambre in Brussels, he began his career alongside Raf Simons straight out of school, later joining Maison Margiela. He also worked at Celine under Phoebe Philo<\/a> before rejoining Raf Simons at Calvin Klein.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

His vision is that of an architect of movement\u2014he thinks in terms of volume, posture, and weight. This was brought to full expression at Bottega Veneta, which he transformed into a laboratory of materials and cuts, exploring the tension between the lightness of a fabric and the rigidity of a silhouette, or the thickness of leather and the fluidity of a ruffle. Despite his discreet public persona, he also reinvented the brand\u2019s communications strategy, bringing its campaigns into sharper alignment with contemporary culture.<\/p>\n\n

His signature:<\/strong> From his very first show for Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy<\/strong> made his mark. Gone was the vibrant green associated with his predecessor. The opening look was a manifesto of craftsmanship – a pair of jeans, a white tank top, and black ankle boots. But the boots were crafted in Intrecciato<\/strong> leather (a technique mastered by the house\u2019s artisans for decades), and the \u201cjeans\u201d were actually made of nubuck leather printed to mimic denim in trompe-l\u2019oeil. For the designer, luxury no longer resides in logos or trends, but in materials and artisanal savoir-faire.<\/p>\n\n

A debut show in Paris on October 6, 2025<\/h3>\n\n

His muses:<\/strong> The famous faces reflecting Matthieu Blazy\u2019s quiet luxury aesthetic are as refined as his vision. Actor Jacob Elordi<\/strong><\/a>, who helped spark the men\u2019s handbag trend<\/a> with him, as well as model Kendall Jenner<\/strong> and rapper A$AP Rocky<\/strong>\u2014both seen in his campaigns\u2014are just a few examples. The designer selects highly influential figures whose impeccable style echoes his own aesthetic.<\/p>\n\n

Why we can\u2019t wait:<\/strong> Matthieu Blazy<\/strong>\u2019s appointment at Chanel<\/a><\/strong>, announced in December 2024, has generated great anticipation\u2014and rightly so. Since Karl Lagerfeld<\/a><\/strong>\u2019s passing in 2019, the Parisian house was led by his longtime right hand, Virginie Viard, before eventually returning to in-house design. While still omnipresent, the brand has lacked a strong artistic vision for the past six years. It is this absence that the French designer now seeks to address with his highly awaited debut show<\/strong>, scheduled for October 6th, 2025, in Paris\u2014where we hope to see the full extent of Chanel\u2019s craftsmanship paired with his sharp, contemporary approach to luxury.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

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\"Louise\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"See-through\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
Portrait of Louise Trotter and a silhouette from the Carven Spring\/Summer 2024 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta<\/h2>\n\n

Her beginnings:<\/strong> Her name remains largely unfamiliar to the general public, yet Louise Trotter<\/strong> is behind the revival of two major brands: Lacoste and Carven. Before leading those houses, however, she trained at Calvin Klein<\/strong><\/a>\u2014where she oversaw women\u2019s ready-to-wear in the 2000s\u2014followed by stints at Tommy Hilfiger and the British label Joseph<\/strong>, where she served from 2009 to 2018.<\/p>\n\n

She later joined Lacoste<\/strong>, where she refreshed its sportswear identity between 2018 and 2023, helping usher in a period of renewed success. She then took the reins at Carven<\/strong>, initiating its revival in just two seasons with ultra-modern silhouettes that balanced the house\u2019s codes with current trends\u2014from sheer skirts to oversized accessories.<\/p>\n\n

Her signature:<\/strong> Louise Trotter\u2019s greatest strength likely lies in her deft command of each house\u2019s heritage. From Lacoste to Carven and Joseph, the British designer has consistently reimagined brand identities through the lens of modernity and trend-awareness. Her highly desirable creations\u2014bridging past and present\u2014have left a lasting mark on the aesthetics of the houses she\u2019s helmed.<\/p>\n\n

First show in Milan on September 27, 2025<\/h3>\n\n

Her muses:<\/strong> At Carven, Louise Trotter chose to forgo the celebrity muse strategy. But at a house as influential as Bottega Veneta, she has embraced the tradition. Though she has yet to present a full collection, her debut creations\u2014and first muses\u2014were revealed at the Cannes Film Festival. Among them were Julianne Moore, seen in two of her designs, and Vicky Krieps. Both are commanding presences in cinema, and their strong personalities seem to mirror Trotter\u2019s own journey and influence.<\/p>\n\n

Why we can\u2019t wait:<\/strong> From the black draped gown worn by Julianne Moore<\/strong>\u2014simply adorned with a leather bow at the shoulder and trailing into fringe down the back\u2014to the second black dress worn by Vicky Krieps<\/strong>, with a sculptural bodice and fluid back, both unveiled in Cannes<\/a> last May, the aesthetic of Louise Trotter<\/strong> at Bottega Veneta is already taking shape. Likely a balance between the house\u2019s artisanal know-how and the designer\u2019s sharp, contemporary eye\u2026 All will be revealed on September 27, 2025, in Milan.<\/p>\n\n

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\"Dario\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Mini\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
Portrait of Dario Vitale (\u00a9 Stef Mitchell) and a silhouette from the Versace Spring\/Summer 2024 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Dario Vitale for Versace<\/h2>\n\n

His beginnings:<\/strong> A 2006 graduate of the Istituto Marangoni<\/strong> in Milan, Dario<\/strong> Vitale<\/strong> is unknown to the general public\u2014and even to much of the fashion world. A discreet figure, the Italian designer began his career at Dsquared2<\/strong> before joining Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta<\/strong>. In just four short years, he had already added two major fashion houses to his r\u00e9sum\u00e9, opening the door to a role at the Prada<\/a> Group<\/strong> in 2010.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

There, he rose through the ranks under the guidance of Miuccia Prada<\/strong> and Fabio Zambernardi<\/strong> (then design director of Prada and Miu Miu), eventually becoming Head of Ready-to-Wear Design<\/strong> and Brand Image at Miu Miu<\/a> in September 2023. This internal rise earned him growing influence within the group and positioned him as the frontrunner when Prada acquired Versace<\/a> last spring. Following the announcement of Donatella<\/strong><\/a>\u2019s departure\u2014after leading the house since her brother Gianni\u2019s death in 1997\u2014he was named as her successor.<\/p>\n\n

His signature:<\/strong> It\u2019s hard to define the creative language of a designer who has worked behind the scenes for most of his career. But Vitale is credited with designing Miu Miu\u2019s iconic miniskirt<\/strong>, first seen in the Spring\/Summer 2022 collection and since gone viral across seasons and across countless wardrobes and fashion brands.<\/p>\n\n

A first show\u2026 canceled?<\/h3>\n\n

His muses:<\/strong> None are publicly known yet. But judging by the faces that have embodied Miu Miu<\/strong>\u2019s ultra-viral aesthetic in recent years, one can likely expect models like Kaia Gerber<\/strong>, Gigi Hadid<\/a><\/strong>, or actress Sydney Sweeney<\/strong><\/a>.<\/p>\n\n

Why we can\u2019t wait:<\/strong> This will be the very first Versace collection<\/strong> conceived by a designer who is neither its founder, Gianni Versace<\/strong>, nor his sister Donatella, who led the house for nearly thirty years. A seismic shift for the brand\u2014but not without its complications. Versace no longer appears on the official Milan Fashion Week<\/strong> calendar for September, fueling speculation. Is the new designer struggling to find his footing? Will he stay in the role? Answers will come this fall, with the debut collection now expected to take the form of a low-profile presentation.<\/p>\n\n

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\"Portrait\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"the\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
Miguel Castro Freitas (\u00a9 Robi Rodriguez) and a silhouette from the Sportmax Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Miguel Castro Freitas for Mugler<\/h2>\n\n

His beginnings:<\/strong> Another unfamiliar name to the general public, Miguel Castro Freitas<\/strong> succeeds Casey Cadwallader<\/a><\/strong>, who had led Mugler<\/strong> since 2017. Yet the Portuguese designer\u2019s background is exemplary: trained by John Galliano<\/strong> at Dior<\/strong>, he went on to work with Stefano Pilati<\/strong> at Saint Laurent<\/strong><\/a>, and then with Alber Elbaz<\/strong> at Lanvin<\/strong>. Three influential designers at three prestigious fashion houses, before a return to Dior under Raf Simons, where he honed his tailoring skills. He later joined Sportmax<\/strong> and eventually became head of the women\u2019s studio at Dries Van Noten<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n

His signature:<\/strong> Having long served as right-hand man to some of fashion\u2019s most iconic designers, Miguel Castro Freitas has not yet revealed a personal aesthetic. But one can imagine he\u2019ll draw from a wide palette\u2014Galliano\u2019s subversion<\/strong> at Dior, Pilati\u2019s glamour<\/strong> at Saint Laurent, Elbaz\u2019s elegance<\/strong> at Lanvin, and the prints of Dries Van Noten. An eclectic melting pot likely to shape his first collections for Mugler<\/strong>, without losing the brand\u2019s bold, sexy edge fostered by Casey Cadwallader.<\/p>\n\n

A debut show in Paris on October 2, 2025<\/h3>\n\n

His muses:<\/strong> They may well remain the same as Casey Cadwallader\u2019s, like the stunning Hunter Schafer<\/strong><\/a>, for instance\u2026<\/p>\n\n

Why we can\u2019t wait:<\/strong> The unexpected departure of American designer Casey Cadwallader suggests a desire for renewal at Mugler, whose spectacular runway shows<\/a> once made headlines but had faded somewhat in an era where fashion is constantly raising the bar in theatricality. The arrival of Miguel Castro Freitas<\/strong> marks a new chapter for the brand, which will unveil his debut collection on October 2nd, 2025, in Paris.<\/p>\n\n

\n
\"Jack\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"the\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
Portrait of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez and a silhouette from the Proenza Schouler Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for Loewe<\/h2>\n\n

Their beginnings:<\/strong> This past January, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez stepped down as creative directors of Proenza Schouler <\/strong>– a brand they themselves had founded twenty years earlier, in 2002. The surprising departure, part of the broader shuffle of artistic directors, laid the groundwork for what followed. Just weeks later, Loewe<\/strong><\/a> announced Jonathan Anderson\u2019s exit and the appointment of the American design duo to lead its creative direction.<\/p>\n\n

Both graduates of the Parsons School of Design<\/strong>, they built together a brand with a cool, conceptual image that captivated not only New Yorkers but also European audiences. While a pillar of American fashion, Proenza Schouler<\/strong> had long been navigating the challenges of independence, bouncing between investors over the years. Their decision to join a major fashion house offers them the opportunity to expand their vision without constraint\u2014aside from the house\u2019s legacy and the demanding pace of both men\u2019s and women\u2019s Fashion Weeks<\/strong>.<\/p><\/p>\n\n

Their signature:<\/strong> Blending modern elegance with a distinctly European sensibility, the duo\u2019s work at Proenza Schouler was also known for reimagining American sportswear<\/a> in colorful and playful ways. This cross-continental mix has defined their unique style and authenticity for over two decades.<\/p>\n\n

A show in Paris on October 3, 2025<\/h3>\n\n

Their muses:<\/strong> From the charismatic Natasha Lyonne<\/strong> to artist Olympia Scarry<\/strong>, author Ottessa Moshfegh<\/strong>, and especially the ultra-cool Chlo\u00eb Sevigny<\/strong><\/a>, the duo\u2019s muses reflect their arty, offbeat approach to fashion\u2014one that\u2019s not far off from Jonathan Anderson\u2019s own vision during his time at Loewe.<\/p>\n\n

Why we can\u2019t wait:<\/strong> This will be Jack McCollough<\/strong> and Lazaro Hernandez<\/strong>\u2019s first-ever collection for a brand other than their own. Stepping outside their comfort zone, they will have to adapt to the demands of a major fashion house, its heritage, and an aesthetic far removed from the American fashion scene. A highly anticipated show, their debut for Loewe is set to be a major highlight of Paris Fashion Week<\/strong> on October 3.<\/p>

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The end of the \u201cfashion mercato\u201d? Last June, Jonathan Anderson\u2019s debut show for Dior took […]<\/p>\n

Read More… from Designers who will present their debut show in September at the Fashion Week<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":711145,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[12,68,97,16,67,2],"tags":[8918,2580,9620,9619,8641,9097,8904],"class_list":["post-711749","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-actu-mode","category-fashion","category-fashion-news","category-fashion-week","category-fashion-week-en","category-mode","tag-duran-lantink-en","tag-fashion-week-en","tag-louise-trotter-en","tag-matthieu-blazy-en","tag-parades","tag-pierpaolo-piccioli-en","tag-proenza-schouler-en"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nFashion Week: designers that will present their debut show<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"From Gucci to Chanel or Balenciaga, discover 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