{"id":644547,"date":"2025-02-27T16:30:00","date_gmt":"2025-02-27T15:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/numero.com\/non-classifiee\/at-london-fashion-week-three-fashion-designers-explore-desire\/"},"modified":"2025-02-28T15:11:28","modified_gmt":"2025-02-28T14:11:28","slug":"at-london-fashion-week-three-fashion-designers-explore-desire","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/fashion\/fashion-week-en\/at-london-fashion-week-three-fashion-designers-explore-desire\/","title":{"rendered":"Three fashion designers explore desire at London Fashion Week"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"The\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>
The Dilara Findikoglu Fall-Winter 2025-2026 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

What\u2019s left of the London Fashion Week?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In less than five years, the London Fashion Week<\/strong> has lost some of its prestige. Already weakened by Brexit and the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020, British brands suffered another blow in 2024. The reason? The closure of MatchesFashion, the online retailer specialising in luxury goods, as emphasised by\u00a0FashionNetwork<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Be that as it may, some brands are still managing to attract the spotlight despite the grey skies looming over the British fashion industry. Among the runway shows that marked the Fall\/Winter 2025-2026 London Fashion Week, three fashion designers stood out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although their creative worlds may differ, Simone Rocha<\/a><\/strong>, Dilara Findikoglu<\/strong> and Dimitra Petsa<\/strong> have one thing in common this season. Their collections, both sensual and subversive, explore feminine desire from a wide range of perspectives.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Dilara Findikoglu Fall-Winter 2025-2026 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dilara Findikoglu follows in the footsteps of McQueen and Margiela<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Dilara Findikoglu<\/strong> is beyond any doubt now one of the key figures of the London Fashion Week<\/strong>. But her influence doesn\u2019t stop there. With her decadent, punk collections, filled with historical references, she appears as Lee Alexander McQueen\u2019s natural heir. Just like the legendary Scottish fashion designer, who passed away in 2011, the Anglo-Turkish designer studied fashion at Central Saint Martins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

She graduated in 2015 and launched her eponymous label the following year. Since then, the woman who collaborated with John Galliano<\/strong> for his last show at Maison Margiela<\/strong> has continued to make a name for herself, in particular thanks to her highly feminist and uncompromising vision – two aspects sorely lacking in contemporary fashion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Entitled Venus in Chaos<\/em>, Dilara Findikoglu\u2019s Fall\/Winter 2025-2026 show called on women to rebel as each silhouette exuded a powerful and assertive sensuality. The pieces evoked flesh, skin, bodies and the organic, through laced up, leather corsets and trousers mimicking armours, and embroideries made from shells and fibres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although the references to Alexander McQueen<\/a><\/strong>, like the low-rise trousers and historical inspirations, to Martin Margiela<\/strong> with the hair jacket, and to Olivier Theyskens<\/strong> with the tattooed dress are sometimes too obvious, the power of this collection commands admiration. And let\u2019s be honest, the fashion industry is desperately waiting for someone to take over after these lost geniuses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"The\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
The Di Petsa Fall-Winter 2025-2026 show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Di Petsa\u2019s catwalk showcases desire and subversion<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Di Petsa<\/strong> was first discovered in 2020, thanks to the singer Yseult<\/strong>. During her performance for\u00a0Colors<\/em>, the French diva sported one of the wet-effect, white dresses that have become the brand\u2019s signature piece. With her sensual fashion label launched in 2019, Dimitra Petsa quickly won over the Kardashian sisters and Gigi Hadid<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But six years on, and with the energy of her early days fading, the Greek designer, who also graduated from Central Saint Martins<\/strong>, needed to renew herself. Especially since Dior<\/strong> and Margiela<\/strong> have come up with similar designs as hers, like tulle silhouettes inspired by Greek deities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In her Fall\/Winter 2025-2026 show,\u00a0Reflections of Desire<\/em>, Dimitra Petsa<\/strong> explored love in all its forms, from romanticism and divine sexuality to erotic literature and desire theory. As in the Dilara Findikoglu\u2019s show, women and femininity are central.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The bridal looks are sensual, even erotic, and celebrate two places designed for pleasure, emotion and power: the breasts and the pelvis. The body materialises desire, while lace lingerie becomes jewellery, an adornment when draped around the body. The centerpiece of Di Petsa\u2019s show is, of course, ecstasy. Who could resist the expression of the pleasure that fashion can offer?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"The\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
The Simone Rocha Fall-Winter 2025-2026 show. \u00a9 Ben Broomfield. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Simone Rocha\u2019s romanticism flirts with BDSM<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

There are two types of fashion designers: the prolix ones, who like to discuss their collections, and the laconic ones, who prefer to let their creations speak for themselves. Simone Rocha undoubtedly falls into the last category. And, is that really a problem?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Well-known and acclaimed by the fashion industry, the Irish designer who launched her label in 1997 has had an exemplary career. In less than fifteen years, Simone Rocha<\/strong> has established a signature silhouette at the crossroads between poetry and impertinence. For this Fall\/Winter 2025-2026 show, Simone Rocha told\u00a0Vogue Runway\u00a0<\/em>that she was inspired by a conversation with her former director, Miss Ruddock, who had told her the fable of\u00a0The Hare and the Tortoise<\/em>. Naturally, she identified herself with the second character in\u00a0Jean de La Fontaine<\/em>\u2019s famous tale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Since she refused to give extensive details about her collection, we took the liberty of offering our own interpretation. True to her romantic style, Simone Rocha<\/strong> ventured into a new, subversive territory. Faux fur, leather and thick chains give her collection some rather unexpected BDSM references, which is more than fine with us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Traduction Emma Naroumbo Armaing.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

What\u2019s left of the London Fashion Week? In less than five years, the London Fashion […]<\/p>\n

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