{"id":505603,"date":"2021-04-13T00:00:00","date_gmt":"1970-01-01T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/numero.com\/non-classifiee-2\/interview-with-virgil-abloh-diversity-in-fashion-is-not-a-marketing-technique-2\/"},"modified":"2021-04-13T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"1970-01-01T00:00:00","slug":"interview-with-virgil-abloh-diversity-in-fashion-is-not-a-marketing-technique-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/non-classifiee\/interview-with-virgil-abloh-diversity-in-fashion-is-not-a-marketing-technique-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Interview with Virgil Abloh : \u201cDiversity in fashion is not a marketing technique\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"\n            <div class=\"wp-block-cb-carousel cb-single-slide\" data-slick=\"{&quot;slidesToShow&quot;:1,&quot;slidesToScroll&quot;:1,&quot;speed&quot;:300,&quot;arrows&quot;:true,&quot;dots&quot;:false,&quot;autoplay&quot;:false,&quot;autoplaySpeed&quot;:3000,&quot;infinite&quot;:true,&quot;responsive&quot;:[{&quot;breakpoint&quot;:769,&quot;settings&quot;:{&quot;slidesToShow&quot;:1,&quot;slidesToScroll&quot;:1}}]}\">\n            No content found for block ID: 411004<br><\/div>\n            \n                    <figure data-wp-context=\"{&quot;imageId&quot;:&quot;6a26f3094b974&quot;}\" data-wp-interactive=\"core\/image\" data-wp-key=\"6a26f3094b974\" class=\"wp-block-image size-medium-large wp-lightbox-container\">\n                    <img decoding=\"async\" data-wp-class--hide=\"state.isContentHidden\" data-wp-class--show=\"state.isContentVisible\" data-wp-init=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\" data-wp-on--load=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--pointerdown=\"actions.preloadImage\" data-wp-on--pointerenter=\"actions.preloadImageWithDelay\" data-wp-on--pointerleave=\"actions.cancelPreload\" data-wp-on-window--resize=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" src=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/06\/VIRGIL20PORTRAIT20JULY20202020Alessio20Segala20DIGITAL-14-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1568\" \/><button\n\t\t\tclass=\"lightbox-trigger\"\n\t\t\ttype=\"button\"\n\t\t\taria-haspopup=\"dialog\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-bind--aria-label=\"state.thisImage.triggerButtonAriaLabel\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-init=\"callbacks.initTriggerButton\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--right=\"state.thisImage.buttonRight\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--top=\"state.thisImage.buttonTop\"\n\t\t>\n\t\t\t<svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"12\" height=\"12\" fill=\"none\" viewBox=\"0 0 12 12\">\n\t\t\t\t<path fill=\"#fff\" d=\"M2 0a2 2 0 0 0-2 2v2h1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 1 .5-.5h2V0H2Zm2 10.5H2a.5.5 0 0 1-.5-.5V8H0v2a2 2 0 0 0 2 2h2v-1.5ZM8 12v-1.5h2a.5.5 0 0 0 .5-.5V8H12v2a2 2 0 0 1-2 2H8Zm2-12a2 2 0 0 1 2 2v2h-1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 0-.5-.5H8V0h2Z\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>\n                    <figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Virgil Abloh\/Alessio Segala.<\/figcaption>\n                    <\/figure>\n                    \n                    <p><strong>Since launching his brand Off- White in 2013,<\/strong> Virgil Abloh has&nbsp;spread his vision well beyond the limits of fashion, establishing himself as more of a visionary than a mere designer. The gen-Z idol, who was&nbsp;born in Rockford, Illinois, does it all: fashion, design, art, architecture, music&#8230; Postmodern in his approach, he envisages the creative industries in a radically new way, brilliantly mixing disciplines and&nbsp;cultural and artistic references to reinvent our times. Rather than creating collections, furniture or artworks from his own subjectivity, he promotes work that borrows and takes its cues from existing fragments of our culture.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p><strong>Indeed it was as a DJ \u2013 mixing tracks,<\/strong> reworking sounds to create&nbsp;new pieces \u2013 that he began to express himself as an adolescent. In his creative approach, this brilliant artistic director operates like an electro-music producer, starting out with samples and prototypes that he looks at anew. A founding component in hip-hop since it emerged in the late 70s, the practice of sampling \u2013 composing a track from bits of existing music \u2013 became mainstream in the 90s, with all sorts of artists quoting in unexpected ways other people\u2019s melodies or lyrics, often in reference to their wider cultural meaning. When we spoke to him, Abloh concurred. \u201cPerhaps the explosion of hip-hop should be seen as a metaphor for artistic democratization. Composing with samples, these fragments of culture, is to understand that creation is unlimited.\u201d Since nothing is created in a vacuum, each creator is inspired by those that preceded them, by those they admired: they build their own work on this heritage. As Abloh himself put it in the notes that accompanied his first Louis Vuitton runway show, \u201c3% of novelty is enough to completely transform an existing garment or accessory.\u201d<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p><strong>Today his work is exhibited at the Art Institute of Chicago,<\/strong> he is&nbsp;invited by prestigious universities such as Harvard to talk about his vision and is interviewed by the most prestigious art magazines. Everyone wants a piece of this charismatic orator, an emblem of an epoch in which pop and academic culture are coming closer and mixing in the profusion of data and images that characterizes our digital world. In this new paradigm, Abloh, who analyses creative fields transversally, acts as a thinker and perhaps even a prophet for a planet in flux. His big- gest gift is his natural affinity with the Zeitgeist, his ability to tap into the elusive \u201cspirit of the times.\u201d<\/p>\r\n\n                <figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n                <iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Men\u2019s Fall-Winter 2021 Fashion Show | LOUIS VUITTON\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" data-cookieconsent=\"statistics, marketing\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/vV_QoQD_nrA?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><div class=\"cookieconsent-optout-statistics cookieconsent-optout-marketing\"><\/div>\n                <\/div><\/figure>\n                <p><strong>It\u2019s thanks to this acute awareness <\/strong>of what has meaning for us&nbsp;today that he excels at identifying, in creations from the past, what might speak to us, move us and excite our interest. Transposing the solidarity of hip-hop, which sees artists invited to&nbsp;perform on each other\u2019s albums, Abloh goes from collaboration to collaboration, seeking to enrich his own work through the vision of others he respects, from all walks of life \u2013 not only artists but also iconic brands. Among his partnerships to date, we can cite Nike, Moncler, Converse, Rimowa, Evian and Ikea as well as the artists Takashi Murakami and Carsten H\u00f6ller.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p><strong>In February 2021, Off-White unveiled a new project characteristic<\/strong>&nbsp;of Abloh\u2019s creative emulation. For the presentation of his spring\/summer-2021 collection, he launched the extraordinary digital platform Imaginary TV. Reminiscent of the music channel MTV, which he watched as a youngster, it broadcasts videos made by artists all over the world\u2013painters, performers, musicians, etc. \u2013 who he invites to take part. Far from lamenting the digital era as a disembodied world, Abloh instead sees it as an extraordinary tool for putting human beings in touch with each other, an outstanding way of bringing to light figures or works that deserve to be better known. On Imaginary TV, you will find many African artists, or figures such as Letizia Galloni, a dancer at the Op\u00e9ra de Paris, who was one of the cosignatories of the famous \u201cmanifesto of diversity\u201d which shook the prestigious institution earlier this year. Because Abloh, whose family hails from Ghana, has every intention of using his position to open the way for talents of all origins who, too often still today, have been slowed down in their progression because of their cultural background or the colour of their skin.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p><strong>His commitment to promoting diversity <\/strong>was central to the runway&nbsp;show he put on this January for the Louis Vuitton autumn\/winter-2021 menswear collection. In the current sanitary crisis, it took, of course, the form of a film streamed on the brand\u2019s website, which included all the references dear to Abloh, in particular an homage to Mies van der Rohe, whom the artistic director, a trained architect, holds in great admiration. The result, reminiscent of a pop video, was worthy of all the talent of a man who started out in the music business. In a minimalist space clad in green marble, we see a Black man walking determinedly, stiff and straight, a mysterious silver briefcase in his hand. The figure in question is none other than the African-American poet and song&nbsp;writer Saul Williams, highlighted in an environment that is as elegant as it is oneiric, where dream and reality seem to fuse, as in a film by David Lynch. Like a wise man contemplating the world, Williams passes silhouettes in suits or dress coats \u2013 sometimes twisted with buttons in the form of aeroplanes or given false folds that are artificially accidental \u2013 and eccentrically dressed models, like the one wearing a silver mirror coat whose entire surface is branded with the Vuitton logo. As he advances, Williams chants out names like mantras: \u201cIn the name of Akhenaton, [Frida] Kahlo, [Walt] Whitman, [James] Baldwin, [Allen] Ginsberg, [Patrice] Lumumba, Ghandi, [Billie] Holiday, [Miles] Davis, [John] Coltrane, [Toni] Morrison, [Janis] Joplin, [Jimi] Hendrix, [Duke] Ellington, [Federico] Fellini, Nefertiti&#8230;\u201d This arresting video-runway show is as impressive in its formal beauty as in the message it delivers. Its inspiration, as Abloh has made clear, is the essay&nbsp;Stranger in the Village, which was published by James Baldwin in 1953 and which describes his experience as an African American visiting the Swiss village of Lo\u00e8che-les-Bains, none of whose inhabitants had ever seen a person of colour before.<\/p>\r\n\n                    <figure data-wp-context=\"{&quot;imageId&quot;:&quot;6a26f3094bd68&quot;}\" data-wp-interactive=\"core\/image\" data-wp-key=\"6a26f3094bd68\" class=\"wp-block-image size-medium-large wp-lightbox-container\">\n                    <img decoding=\"async\" data-wp-class--hide=\"state.isContentHidden\" data-wp-class--show=\"state.isContentVisible\" data-wp-init=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\" data-wp-on--load=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--pointerdown=\"actions.preloadImage\" data-wp-on--pointerenter=\"actions.preloadImageWithDelay\" data-wp-on--pointerleave=\"actions.cancelPreload\" data-wp-on-window--resize=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" src=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/06\/Louis-vuitton-virgil-abloh-numero-magazine-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1568\" \/><button\n\t\t\tclass=\"lightbox-trigger\"\n\t\t\ttype=\"button\"\n\t\t\taria-haspopup=\"dialog\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-bind--aria-label=\"state.thisImage.triggerButtonAriaLabel\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-init=\"callbacks.initTriggerButton\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--right=\"state.thisImage.buttonRight\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--top=\"state.thisImage.buttonTop\"\n\t\t>\n\t\t\t<svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"12\" height=\"12\" fill=\"none\" viewBox=\"0 0 12 12\">\n\t\t\t\t<path fill=\"#fff\" d=\"M2 0a2 2 0 0 0-2 2v2h1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 1 .5-.5h2V0H2Zm2 10.5H2a.5.5 0 0 1-.5-.5V8H0v2a2 2 0 0 0 2 2h2v-1.5ZM8 12v-1.5h2a.5.5 0 0 0 .5-.5V8H12v2a2 2 0 0 1-2 2H8Zm2-12a2 2 0 0 1 2 2v2h-1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 0-.5-.5H8V0h2Z\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>\n                    <figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Le sac avion du d\u00e9fil\u00e9 Louis Vuitton Homme automne-hiver 2021.<\/figcaption>\n                    <\/figure>\n                    \n                    <p><strong>Though fashion has long been open to diversity,<\/strong> Abloh is&nbsp;nonetheless one of the few Black figures to have reached the summits of its hierarchy. And in the context of George Floyd\u2019s death, Black Lives Matter and the acceleration of anti-racist protest, he no longer hides his desire to help his community. But even though it wasn\u2019t so obviously stated, this desire was already present in the way he invited Parisian youngsters \u2013 exponents of street culture \u2013 to his Off-White runway shows. More than just a small privileged elite, it\u2019s the entire diverse spectrum of young people, an authentic snapshot of the reality of French society today, that rubs shoulders at his runway shows during Paris fashion week.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p><strong>In his spring\/summer-2021 Off- White collection<\/strong>, Abloh expanded&nbsp;his desire for inclusivity by questioning traditional gender codes, taking inspiration in this context from the way African male dress often includes variations on the skirt. But can fashion simply content itself with \u201cshowing\u201d diversity and shouting out its love of difference and inclusion, or ought it to reform itself from top to&nbsp;bottom in order to ensure that anyone and everyone has the possibility of rising to the top, like the founder of Off-White? \u201cThat will take time, a lot of time,\u201d sighs Abloh. \u201cBut we will fight to give voice to those who are hidden, so that at last the economic system will resemble the real world. Diversity in fashion is not a marketing technique. We\u2019re simply looking to give voice to those who are invisible so that they can at last give their own view on the way they\u2019re shown, idealized and exploited.\u201d<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p><strong>While Abloh\u2019s taste for collaborations recalls the world of hip-hop<\/strong>,&nbsp;his connection with the genre is pertinent in another respect, in that the wind of change and diversity he is promoting evokes the spirit of the 1970s when rap, DJs, breakdance, graffiti and beatboxing brought to light a whole host of individuals from minority and working-class backgrounds. Moreover, more than just a form of artistic expression, hip-hop was a political movement, the big bang that, as an inspiration to Abloh right from the start, led him to propel streetwear into the highest spheres of luxury production. But does promoting diversity inevitably mean being radical? \u201cFor me, it\u2019s less about being radical than being honest,\u201d confides Abloh. \u201cHonest with respect to the history of the world as it really is and not as we\u2019ve been told it is all these years. It\u2019s a holistic approach. I don\u2019t think of diversity as a simple added extra mixed in with my work but as an essential component. That can clearly be seen in the stories I tell, the images I create and the people I hire.\u201d<\/p>\r\n\n                    <figure data-wp-context=\"{&quot;imageId&quot;:&quot;6a26f3094c0c5&quot;}\" data-wp-interactive=\"core\/image\" data-wp-key=\"6a26f3094c0c5\" class=\"wp-block-image size-medium-large wp-lightbox-container\">\n                    <img decoding=\"async\" data-wp-class--hide=\"state.isContentHidden\" data-wp-class--show=\"state.isContentVisible\" data-wp-init=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\" data-wp-on--load=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--pointerdown=\"actions.preloadImage\" data-wp-on--pointerenter=\"actions.preloadImageWithDelay\" data-wp-on--pointerleave=\"actions.cancelPreload\" data-wp-on-window--resize=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" src=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/06\/louis-vuitton-virgil-abloh-numero-magazine-2-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1568\" \/><button\n\t\t\tclass=\"lightbox-trigger\"\n\t\t\ttype=\"button\"\n\t\t\taria-haspopup=\"dialog\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-bind--aria-label=\"state.thisImage.triggerButtonAriaLabel\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-init=\"callbacks.initTriggerButton\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--right=\"state.thisImage.buttonRight\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--top=\"state.thisImage.buttonTop\"\n\t\t>\n\t\t\t<svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"12\" height=\"12\" fill=\"none\" viewBox=\"0 0 12 12\">\n\t\t\t\t<path fill=\"#fff\" d=\"M2 0a2 2 0 0 0-2 2v2h1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 1 .5-.5h2V0H2Zm2 10.5H2a.5.5 0 0 1-.5-.5V8H0v2a2 2 0 0 0 2 2h2v-1.5ZM8 12v-1.5h2a.5.5 0 0 0 .5-.5V8H12v2a2 2 0 0 1-2 2H8Zm2-12a2 2 0 0 1 2 2v2h-1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 0-.5-.5H8V0h2Z\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>\n                    <figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Les baskets m\u00e9tallis\u00e9es de Virgil Abloh lors du d\u00e9fil\u00e9 Louis Vuitton homme automne-hiver 2021.<\/figcaption>\n                    <\/figure>\n                    \n                    <p><strong>It was in this spirit that Abloh launched the Post-Modern Fund&nbsp;<\/strong>\u2013 in partnership with Evian, Farfetch, Louis Vuitton and the Fashion Scholarship Fund \u2013, which allowed him to raise $1 million in scholarship grants for Black students in fashion. \u201cI\u2019ve always been passionate about giving the next generation of students the same foundation for success that was given to me,\u201d he explains on the Fashion Scholarship Fund website. Using his status to open doors for others, rather than closing them, is the watchword of a man who fundamentally believes in the power of difference. \u201cDiversity isn\u2019t just a question of gender and ethnicity,\u201d he told us. \u201cIt\u2019s a question of experience. It brings new ideas to the table. And it would be good if the fashion industry actually listened and took them on board.\u201d<\/p>\r\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Since launching his brand Off- White in 2013, Virgil Abloh has&nbsp;spread his vision well beyond [&#8230;]<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"btn btn-secondary understrap-read-more-link\" href=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/non-classifiee\/interview-with-virgil-abloh-diversity-in-fashion-is-not-a-marketing-technique-2\/\">Read More&#8230;<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> from Interview with Virgil Abloh : \u201cDiversity in fashion is not a marketing technique\u201d<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":0,"featured_media":505595,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-505603","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-non-classifiee"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Virgil Abloh : the idol of generation Z from Off-White to Louis Vuitton<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/non-classifiee\/interview-with-virgil-abloh-diversity-in-fashion-is-not-a-marketing-technique-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta 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