{"id":501477,"date":"2022-04-11T00:00:00","date_gmt":"1970-01-01T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/numero.com\/non-classifiee-2\/from-renaissance-paintings-to-jw-andersons-clothes-a-major-exhibition-explores-the-evolution-of-menswear-2\/"},"modified":"2022-04-11T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"1970-01-01T00:00:00","slug":"from-renaissance-paintings-to-jw-andersons-clothes-a-major-exhibition-explores-the-evolution-of-menswear-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/non-classifiee-2\/from-renaissance-paintings-to-jw-andersons-clothes-a-major-exhibition-explores-the-evolution-of-menswear-2\/","title":{"rendered":"From Renaissance paintings to JW Anderson\u2019s clothes, a major exhibition explores the evolution of menswear"},"content":{"rendered":"\n                    <figure data-wp-context=\"{&quot;imageId&quot;:&quot;6a214d6e98fa4&quot;}\" data-wp-interactive=\"core\/image\" data-wp-key=\"6a214d6e98fa4\" class=\"wp-block-image size-medium-large wp-lightbox-container\">\n                    <img decoding=\"async\" data-wp-class--hide=\"state.isContentHidden\" data-wp-class--show=\"state.isContentVisible\" data-wp-init=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\" data-wp-on--load=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--pointerdown=\"actions.preloadImage\" data-wp-on--pointerenter=\"actions.preloadImageWithDelay\" data-wp-on--pointerleave=\"actions.cancelPreload\" data-wp-on-window--resize=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" src=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/06\/sam-smith-gucci-alasdair-mclellan-victoria-albert-museum-numero-magazine-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1568\" \/><button\n\t\t\tclass=\"lightbox-trigger\"\n\t\t\ttype=\"button\"\n\t\t\taria-haspopup=\"dialog\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-bind--aria-label=\"state.thisImage.triggerButtonAriaLabel\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-init=\"callbacks.initTriggerButton\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--right=\"state.thisImage.buttonRight\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--top=\"state.thisImage.buttonTop\"\n\t\t>\n\t\t\t<svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"12\" height=\"12\" fill=\"none\" viewBox=\"0 0 12 12\">\n\t\t\t\t<path fill=\"#fff\" d=\"M2 0a2 2 0 0 0-2 2v2h1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 1 .5-.5h2V0H2Zm2 10.5H2a.5.5 0 0 1-.5-.5V8H0v2a2 2 0 0 0 2 2h2v-1.5ZM8 12v-1.5h2a.5.5 0 0 0 .5-.5V8H12v2a2 2 0 0 1-2 2H8Zm2-12a2 2 0 0 1 2 2v2h-1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 0-.5-.5H8V0h2Z\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>\n                    <figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sam Smith (2020) photographi\u00e9 par Alasdair McLellan, Hertfordshire.\r\n\r\n\r\nR\u00e9alisation : Ben Reardon. Assistant r\u00e9alisation : Niccolo Torelli. Coiffure : Anthony Turner. Maquillage : Anne Sophie Costa. Assistants photographe : Lex Kembery et Simon Mackinlay<\/figcaption>\n                    <\/figure>\n                    \n                    <p><strong>Embroidered and printed roses burgeon all over a pastel-greensuit worn with a powder-pink bow tie.<\/strong> This Gucci outfit is currently on display at London\u2019s prestigious mu- seum of fashion and the decorative arts, the Victoria &amp; Albert, where it is paired for the first time with an 18th-century French waistcoat. Tailored in emerald-green silk bro- cade and entirely embroidered with flowers, the opulent historic gar- ment shares with its neighbour cer- tain disconcerting similarities, to which respond a young man in pourpoint surrounded by climbing roses, as painted by the Elizabethan miniaturist Nicholas Hilliard. A triple dialogue which confirms, if we ever doubted it, that fashion is an eternal recommencement.<\/p>\r\n\n                    <figure data-wp-context=\"{&quot;imageId&quot;:&quot;6a214d6e99387&quot;}\" data-wp-interactive=\"core\/image\" data-wp-key=\"6a214d6e99387\" class=\"wp-block-image size-medium-large wp-lightbox-container\">\n                    <img decoding=\"async\" data-wp-class--hide=\"state.isContentHidden\" data-wp-class--show=\"state.isContentVisible\" data-wp-init=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\" data-wp-on--load=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--pointerdown=\"actions.preloadImage\" data-wp-on--pointerenter=\"actions.preloadImageWithDelay\" data-wp-on--pointerleave=\"actions.cancelPreload\" data-wp-on-window--resize=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" src=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/06\/gucci-captain-albert-william-owen-victoria-albert-museum-numero-magazine-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1568\" \/><button\n\t\t\tclass=\"lightbox-trigger\"\n\t\t\ttype=\"button\"\n\t\t\taria-haspopup=\"dialog\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-bind--aria-label=\"state.thisImage.triggerButtonAriaLabel\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-init=\"callbacks.initTriggerButton\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--right=\"state.thisImage.buttonRight\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--top=\"state.thisImage.buttonTop\"\n\t\t>\n\t\t\t<svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"12\" height=\"12\" fill=\"none\" viewBox=\"0 0 12 12\">\n\t\t\t\t<path fill=\"#fff\" d=\"M2 0a2 2 0 0 0-2 2v2h1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 1 .5-.5h2V0H2Zm2 10.5H2a.5.5 0 0 1-.5-.5V8H0v2a2 2 0 0 0 2 2h2v-1.5ZM8 12v-1.5h2a.5.5 0 0 0 .5-.5V8H12v2a2 2 0 0 1-2 2H8Zm2-12a2 2 0 0 1 2 2v2h-1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 0-.5-.5H8V0h2Z\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>\n                    <figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Portrait of Captain Gilbert Heathcote RN, 1779-1831 [1801- 1805] de William Owen. Huile sur toile. \r\nPhoto : Birmingham Museums Trust, licensed under CC0<\/figcaption>\n                    <\/figure>\n                    \n                    \n                    <figure data-wp-context=\"{&quot;imageId&quot;:&quot;6a214d6e996cc&quot;}\" data-wp-interactive=\"core\/image\" data-wp-key=\"6a214d6e996cc\" class=\"wp-block-image size-medium-large wp-lightbox-container\">\n                    <img decoding=\"async\" data-wp-class--hide=\"state.isContentHidden\" data-wp-class--show=\"state.isContentVisible\" data-wp-init=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\" data-wp-on--load=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--pointerdown=\"actions.preloadImage\" data-wp-on--pointerenter=\"actions.preloadImageWithDelay\" data-wp-on--pointerleave=\"actions.cancelPreload\" data-wp-on-window--resize=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" src=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/06\/gucci-jean-baptiste-belley-omar-victor-diop-numero-magazine-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1568\" \/><button\n\t\t\tclass=\"lightbox-trigger\"\n\t\t\ttype=\"button\"\n\t\t\taria-haspopup=\"dialog\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-bind--aria-label=\"state.thisImage.triggerButtonAriaLabel\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-init=\"callbacks.initTriggerButton\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--right=\"state.thisImage.buttonRight\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--top=\"state.thisImage.buttonTop\"\n\t\t>\n\t\t\t<svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"12\" height=\"12\" fill=\"none\" viewBox=\"0 0 12 12\">\n\t\t\t\t<path fill=\"#fff\" d=\"M2 0a2 2 0 0 0-2 2v2h1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 1 .5-.5h2V0H2Zm2 10.5H2a.5.5 0 0 1-.5-.5V8H0v2a2 2 0 0 0 2 2h2v-1.5ZM8 12v-1.5h2a.5.5 0 0 0 .5-.5V8H12v2a2 2 0 0 1-2 2H8Zm2-12a2 2 0 0 1 2 2v2h-1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 0-.5-.5H8V0h2Z\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>\n                    <figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Jean-Baptiste Belley (2014) d\u2019Omar Victor Diop. Impression jet d\u2019encre pigmentaire sur papier Harman by Hahnem\u00fchle.\r\nCourtesy of MAGNIN-A Gallery, Paris \u00a9 Omar Victor Diop<\/figcaption>\n                    <\/figure>\n                    \n                    <p><strong>Articulated around these resonances and transformations<\/strong>, the V&amp;A\u2019s new exhibition explores the evolutions and revolutions in masculinities since the Renaissance, showcasing the great movements, icons and designers who have shaped men\u2019s fashion in the West.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p><strong>Sponsored by Gucci and featuring over 100 garments and accessories, and as many works of art,<\/strong> <i>Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear <\/i>is not only the biggest men\u2019s fashion exhibition in the V&amp;A\u2019s history, it is also one of the largest ever to focus on the relationship between art and clothing, a double approach defended by its organizers, the fashion curator Claire Wilcox and the specialist in painting and drawing Rosalind McKever. <i>\u201cWe\u2019re very interested in the way the garment \u2013 be it textile, sculpted or painted \u2013 can define a character and give it power,\u201d<\/i> comments Wilcox. Though the show eschews a chronological approach, its timeframe spans pieces from the 1560s to recent clothing by contemporary designers such as Thom Browne or Craig Green.<\/p>\r\n\n                    <figure data-wp-context=\"{&quot;imageId&quot;:&quot;6a214d6e99a0a&quot;}\" data-wp-interactive=\"core\/image\" data-wp-key=\"6a214d6e99a0a\" class=\"wp-block-image size-medium-large wp-lightbox-container\">\n                    <img decoding=\"async\" data-wp-class--hide=\"state.isContentHidden\" data-wp-class--show=\"state.isContentVisible\" data-wp-init=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\" data-wp-on--load=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--pointerdown=\"actions.preloadImage\" data-wp-on--pointerenter=\"actions.preloadImageWithDelay\" data-wp-on--pointerleave=\"actions.cancelPreload\" data-wp-on-window--resize=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" src=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/06\/gucci-fluid-romanticism-harris-reed-victoria-albert-museum-numero-magazine-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1568\" \/><button\n\t\t\tclass=\"lightbox-trigger\"\n\t\t\ttype=\"button\"\n\t\t\taria-haspopup=\"dialog\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-bind--aria-label=\"state.thisImage.triggerButtonAriaLabel\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-init=\"callbacks.initTriggerButton\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--right=\"state.thisImage.buttonRight\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--top=\"state.thisImage.buttonTop\"\n\t\t>\n\t\t\t<svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"12\" height=\"12\" fill=\"none\" viewBox=\"0 0 12 12\">\n\t\t\t\t<path fill=\"#fff\" d=\"M2 0a2 2 0 0 0-2 2v2h1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 1 .5-.5h2V0H2Zm2 10.5H2a.5.5 0 0 1-.5-.5V8H0v2a2 2 0 0 0 2 2h2v-1.5ZM8 12v-1.5h2a.5.5 0 0 0 .5-.5V8H12v2a2 2 0 0 1-2 2H8Zm2-12a2 2 0 0 1 2 2v2h-1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 0-.5-.5H8V0h2Z\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>\n                    <figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Fluid Romanticism par Harris Reed.\r\nCourtesy of Harris Reed. Photo : Giovanni Corabi<\/figcaption>\n                    <\/figure>\n                    \n                    <p><strong>Through the prism of the garment, connections emerge between historic and present-day figures. <\/strong>Immortalized on canvas by Joshua Reynolds, the pink-taffeta cape worn by Charles Coote, first Earl of Bellamont, in a 1774 portrait resonates with the one designed by Randi Rahm, with its fuchsia-satin lining, that was worn in 2019 by actor Billy Porter. Despite the two- and-a-half centuries that separate them, their pairing allows new readings to emerge.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p><strong>Organized in three sections \u2013 \u201cUnderdressed,\u201d \u201cOverdressed\u201d and \u201cRedressed\u201d \u2013, the exhibition unpicks the construction of masculinities through both the addition and subtraction of garments<\/strong>. From the Farnese Hermes, whose marble-sculpted chlamys accentuates the statue\u2019s musculature, to the transparent ensemble designed by young couturier Ludovic de Saint Sernin, not forgetting Calvin Klein\u2019s 1980s underwear, the show opens with quasi nudes, reminding us that the ideal of the male body is also an ever-changing fashion. As for that central garment in the masculine wardrobe, the suit, it takes up the entire last section. Between the art of 19th-century tailors, who sought to customize it with subtle little touches, and recent reinterpretations of the suit by Comme des Gar\u00e7ons or JW Anderson, it becomes more and more versatile as time passes, while remaining an unshakable symbol of men\u2019s power.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n\r\n<p><strong>Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear&nbsp;at the Victoria &amp; Albert Museum, London, until 6 November.<\/strong><\/p>\r\n\n                    <figure data-wp-context=\"{&quot;imageId&quot;:&quot;6a214d6e99d58&quot;}\" data-wp-interactive=\"core\/image\" data-wp-key=\"6a214d6e99d58\" class=\"wp-block-image size-medium-large wp-lightbox-container\">\n                    <img decoding=\"async\" data-wp-class--hide=\"state.isContentHidden\" data-wp-class--show=\"state.isContentVisible\" data-wp-init=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\" data-wp-on--load=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" data-wp-on--pointerdown=\"actions.preloadImage\" data-wp-on--pointerenter=\"actions.preloadImageWithDelay\" data-wp-on--pointerleave=\"actions.cancelPreload\" data-wp-on-window--resize=\"callbacks.setButtonStyles\" src=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/06\/gucci-charles-coote-joshua-reynolds-victoria-albert-museu-numero-magazine-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1568\" \/><button\n\t\t\tclass=\"lightbox-trigger\"\n\t\t\ttype=\"button\"\n\t\t\taria-haspopup=\"dialog\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-bind--aria-label=\"state.thisImage.triggerButtonAriaLabel\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-init=\"callbacks.initTriggerButton\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-on--click=\"actions.showLightbox\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--right=\"state.thisImage.buttonRight\"\n\t\t\tdata-wp-style--top=\"state.thisImage.buttonTop\"\n\t\t>\n\t\t\t<svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"12\" height=\"12\" fill=\"none\" viewBox=\"0 0 12 12\">\n\t\t\t\t<path fill=\"#fff\" d=\"M2 0a2 2 0 0 0-2 2v2h1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 1 .5-.5h2V0H2Zm2 10.5H2a.5.5 0 0 1-.5-.5V8H0v2a2 2 0 0 0 2 2h2v-1.5ZM8 12v-1.5h2a.5.5 0 0 0 .5-.5V8H12v2a2 2 0 0 1-2 2H8Zm2-12a2 2 0 0 1 2 2v2h-1.5V2a.5.5 0 0 0-.5-.5H8V0h2Z\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>\n                    <figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Portrait of Charles Coote, 1st Earl of Bellamont (1738-1800), in Robes of the Order of the Bath (1773-1774) de Joshua Reynolds. Huile sur toile.\r\nPhoto : \u00a9 National Gallery of Ireland<\/figcaption>\n                    <\/figure>\n                    \n                    ","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Embroidered and printed roses burgeon all over a pastel-greensuit worn with a powder-pink bow tie. [&#8230;]<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"btn btn-secondary understrap-read-more-link\" href=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/non-classifiee-2\/from-renaissance-paintings-to-jw-andersons-clothes-a-major-exhibition-explores-the-evolution-of-menswear-2\/\">Read More&#8230;<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> from From Renaissance paintings to JW Anderson\u2019s clothes, a major exhibition explores the evolution of menswear<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":0,"featured_media":501465,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[73],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-501477","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-non-classifiee-2"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>From Renaissance paintings to JW Anderson\u2019s clothes, an exhibition explores the evolution of men&#039;s fashion<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/non-classifiee-2\/from-renaissance-paintings-to-jw-andersons-clothes-a-major-exhibition-explores-the-evolution-of-menswear-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"From Renaissance paintings to JW Anderson\u2019s clothes, an exhibition explores the evolution of men&#039;s fashion\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Embroidered and printed roses burgeon all over a pastel-greensuit worn with a powder-pink bow tie. 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