{"id":501450,"date":"2022-05-06T00:00:00","date_gmt":"1970-01-01T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/numero.com\/non-classifiee-2\/alexandre-mattiussi-the-growth-of-ami-was-exponential-and-i-didnt-want-to-miss-out-on-my-story-2\/"},"modified":"2022-05-06T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"1970-01-01T00:00:00","slug":"alexandre-mattiussi-the-growth-of-ami-was-exponential-and-i-didnt-want-to-miss-out-on-my-story-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/non-classifiee-2\/alexandre-mattiussi-the-growth-of-ami-was-exponential-and-i-didnt-want-to-miss-out-on-my-story-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Alexandre Mattiussi: \u201cThe growth of AMI was exponential, and I didn\u2019t want to miss out on my story\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Double-breasted new wool coat, denim pants and hat, AMI ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI. Earring and rings, CARTIER. Vintage tank top. \u00a9 Pierre et Gilles, De l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 des docks, Alexandre Mattiussi (2022). Hairstyle and makeup: Louise Garnier from Marie-France Thavonekham Agency using N\u00b01 DE CHANEL cosmetics.\r\n<\/figcaption>\n <\/figure>\n \n

In North-East Paris near Pantin, the metro station Hoche on line 5 would be the closest stop next to the studio <\/strong>of photographers Pierre et Gilles, who captured Alexander Mattiussi for this new issue of Num\u00e9ro Homme. Unfortunately, by this end of January, Isabelle Huppert is no longer here to show us the right direction. It has been two weeks since the French actress, along with Carla Bruni and Pierre Niney, played the roles of agents from the Parisian public transportation company RATP to promote AMI Fall\/Winter 2022-2023 show, staged in a public transport setting, on the brand\u2019s Instagram. \u201cThe metro is the last place where you can find a crowd of various people [\u2026] I like this melting pot, the diversity existing in public transport, while everything seems to be divided between the left or the right banks, which are clearly delimited elsewhere in Paris<\/em>\u201d, the designer explains. However, this popular mix was somehow outshined by the show taking place at the Palais de la Bourse on January 19th. One could spot Catherine Deneuve \u2013 ambassador of the \u201cD\u00e9j\u00e0-Vu\u201d bag since last fall \u2013 intending one of the label\u2019s shows for the first time. The three interprets of the fake RATP voice announcements sat in the front row, along with Eddy de Pretto, Louane, Caroline de Maigret, Jean-Paul Goude, Farida Khelfa, Th\u00e9o Christine, Miguel Herr\u00e1n and Jonathan Bailey, while Ben Attal, Laetitia Casta and Isabelle Adjani walked on the runway\u2026 an outstanding, almost unbelievable audience for a menswear label that doesn\u2019t rely on any luxury multinational corporation. An achievement that calls for admiration and triggers even more questions about the success of Alexandre Mattiussi and of his brand AMI.<\/p>\r\n\r\n

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At the metro station Hoche exit, another poster advertising the upcoming show gives us <\/strong>another hint that this small company isn\u2019t going through any crisis. \u201cWe have multiplied our [undisclosed] turnover by four over the last two years<\/em>\u201d, he confesses during our interview. Nicolas Santi-Weil, who has been working with him as AMI chief executive and main business partner for almost nine years, will not dispute that fact. In January 2021, the duo welcomed Sequoia Capital China as their shareholder. Up until now, the Beijing-based venture capital company used to invest mainly in new technologies, with over 600 companies, including Airbnb, JD.com and Alibaba in their portfolio. This association provides exceptional means to the French brand, and allows Alexandre Mattiussi to pursue his dreams, he, who has always \u201cseen the big picture<\/em>\u201d as a kid. \u201cActually, I am determined to pursue all of my dreams<\/em>\u201d, he states without blushing, before adding: \u201cI worked a lot on myself over the past few years\u2026 the growth of AMI was exponential, and I didn\u2019t want to miss out on my story or wake up one day unable to recognize myself in my own company because I took too much distance, was tired or surrounded myself with people making decisions for me. I had this project in mind for a long time. I switched on the machine myself, and eleven years later, I still care about keeping my own two hands on the wheel to materialize my dreams\u2026 Calling on Catherine Deneuve was one of them. Collaborating with photographer Paolo Roversi, and more recently with Jean-Paul Goude for an advert campaign, was another one. And when the latter told me that we wouldn\u2019t need a model because I was the ideal character for his staging, I didn\u2019t say no. At this point, I think I have to enjoy myself first and if it feels good to me, then it will feel the same for people behind their screen or shopping around. AMI booms everywhere, but at the end of the day I remain the one who sleeps, dreams, wakes up full of ideas, meets new people and imagines his evolution through his own lens. I love to say that AMI lives to the beat of my heart<\/em>.\u201d<\/p>\r\n

\u201cThe growth of AMI was exponential, and I didn\u2019t want to miss out on my story or wake up one day unable to recognize myself in my own company because I took too much distance<\/em>.\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\r\n\r\n

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Today, AMI Paris has nearly 300 employees working on four different sites. <\/strong>Due to the pandemic and multiple lockdowns, its activity and its size have increased as a result. By the end of the year, they will all reunite in one main building \u2013 still under construction \u2013 at 9 Place des Victoires in the 2nd arrondissement. The future headquarters will be located a few steps away from the cafe in Rue Croix-des-Petits Champs where the brand made his debut show with a bunch of models gathered around the counter, like friends meeting for afterwork drinks one evening in January 2011. A couple of weeks earlier, in a showroom near Les Halles, Alexandre Mattiussi shared his desire to dress his own friends, their respective friends, and any man in general who might be interested in fashion without making a fuss about it. His pitch was on point. According to him, not a single guy could identify to the silhouettes on the runways. In addition to that, these models were expensive, and their quality hadn\u2019t always been proved\u2026<\/p>\r\n\r\n

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The thirty-year-old designer mastered his topic and came up with a market study,<\/strong> a business plan, a selection of manufacturers, and a collection outline ready to back up his vision. \u201cIn 2022, AMI matches in every aspect the project Alexandre presented to me before launching his brand<\/em>\u201d, Jean-Jacques Picart states, as he used to mentor large firms and young designers at the time. \u201cI was struck by the precision of his pitch. Usually, people who aimed at starting up a project came with a dream whose core only was perfectly clear and defined. In Alexandre\u2019s case, he thought everything through beforehand. He had even drawn hanging rails for the showroom<\/em>\u201d. Claus Estermann also adds that \u201cthe thickness of his dossier impressed our entire circle of friends. Alexandre talked with conviction, clarity, and concision, like only he knows how\u2026 It went down like a treat for the business angels.<\/em>\u201d. As for the rest of the story, the designer with a genuine business instinct tells it better than anyone else: \u201cI always envisioned AMI as something big. I valued my brand at about one million euros from the very start. When my relatives would ask me where I got this number from, I would argue that investors gave me 5,000, 10,000, even 50,000 euros, and that I didn\u2019t give them more than 10% of the capital share. It is important to remain one\u2019s own boss, to have good working conditions, to be able to have a long-term vision, to be free and to avoid owing anyone an explanation<\/em>\u201d.<\/p>\r\n\r\n

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With no further delay, Alexandre Mattiussi bluffed his nine business angels<\/strong> in signing several exclusivity agreements in his first season with Le Bon March\u00e9 and Le Printemps France, as well as with Barneys in the United States and with the British e-shop Mr Porter. Among them, a friend of Nicolas Santi-Weil recommended the latter to take a look at the brand, while he was leading the gigantic growth of The Kooples in 2012. \u201cI went to a department store during my lunch break and had a genuine encounter with the brand\u201d<\/em>, AMI current chief executive recalls, before adding: \u201cThe cut of the clothes were well-made, the quality and price range were coherent. And the sales assistant was all smiles, not snobbish at all\u2026 I cleaned out the shop and went back to the office telling everyone \u2018Look at AMI, he gets it!\u201d<\/em>. At that time, the label sticked with easy-going presentations, thus reinforcing its initial intention to be an accessible brand for the \u2018boy next door\u2019. In January 2013, Alexandre Mattiussi (already) imagined the Parisian metro background of his fifth collection to address the issue of diversity. Brice Compagnon, who made his debuts with photographer Olivier Toscani on Benetton\u2019s campaigns before launching CastingOffice in Paris in 2001, remembers: \u201cWhen we would meet a guy who could be friend with Alexandre, he would select him for the presentation, whether he was small or tall<\/em>\u201d.<\/p>\r\n\r\n

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\u201cPresenting his clothes on different body types mattered to him, as opposed to the stereotypical and standardized runway models found in other fashion houses. There was a certain pleasantness in his approach that made me think he could succeed in Paris, as well as in the provinces, and even abroad<\/strong>.<\/em>\u201d<\/p>\r\n\r\n

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As a closing act for that presentation, Alexandre Mattiussi asked Benjamin Clementine to sing Emmenez-moi [Take Me Along] \u2013 an appropriate song given that the designer met Nicolas Santi-Weil a few days earlier and invited him to his event. Mattiussi and Santi-Weil found some common ground before the summer in 2013. They both complement each other, are passionate, ambitious, and form a solid professional duo\u2026 Something rare in the fashion industry. During that same year, Bpifrance invested in AMI Paris through the Fashion & Finance fund. It would later be replaced by NEO Investment Partners, then by Sequoia Capital China in January 2021. Nicolas Santi-Weil, who also injected some of his money into the project, now works on the marketing aspect of the brand, a field in which creatives usually fail. \u201cI was convinced that Alexandre\u2019s universal message would work anywhere<\/em>\u201d, the chief executive explains. \u201cThe guy had the casual style one could see on every street corner. It was a concept with a promising future anywhere, from Paris, to Tokyo, Seoul, or New York. We made sure not to depend on any specific market or distribution channel. We built a qualified network of international outlets, and parallel to that, we developed our own website. Then, we saw the bigger picture, we issued an invitation to tender. At the same time, the platform Farfetch announced the creation of individual websites for fashion houses. We were the first brand to sign with them and this partnership quickly became a beautiful story, a win-win collaboration that allowed us to improve ourselves one day at a time, to get fast updates about their investments on a new market, to have a regular cash flow\u2026<\/em>\u201d<\/p>\r\n

Parallel to this flourishing e-shop without borders, <\/strong>AMI has opened new shops in strategic cities with a total of 20 shops today. The brand has given womenswear a successful try \u2013 a field which grows even faster than menswear \u2013 signed several short-term collaborations with other brands such as Puma in 2022, and started communicating through a variety of channels, materials, and images. Which Parisian haven\u2019t spotted the gigantic adverts on the walls of the Louvres last fall? Or the \u201cAmi de Coeur\u201d [boyfriend or girlfriend] decorations on the Christmas tree in front of the Centre Pompidou at the end of last year? Or else, the metro stations underneath the Champs-Elys\u00e9es painted in the brand\u2019s colors and equipped with plasma screens to broadcast the next Fall\/Winter show for an entire week last January 2022? \u201cI love fashion for all\u201d, Alexandre Mattiussi claims. \u201cOn my way to Pierre and Gilles\u2019, a guy driving a scooter recognized me. He opened his jacket in a hurry to show me that he was wearing one of my tee-shirts\u2026 Nothing makes me feel better than seeing my clothes on people in the street. I am constantly proud of the fact that AMI\u2019s success is organic, genuine, and grounded, especially at a time when everything is digital. I will keep following this direction. Aside from that, I am also thinking about creating foundation. I will not reinvent myself as a Coluche of some sort, but there is a lot to do at a local scale \u2013 for instance, helping the homeless we run into everywhere in Paris<\/em>\u201d. A big-hearted man on top of that.<\/p>\r\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In North-East Paris near Pantin, the metro station Hoche on line 5 would be the […]<\/p>\n

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