{"id":499696,"date":"2022-07-12T00:00:00","date_gmt":"1970-01-01T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/numero.com\/mode\/fashion-week\/olivier-rousteing-enhances-jean-paul-gaultiers-iconic-pieces-2\/"},"modified":"2022-07-12T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"1970-01-01T00:00:00","slug":"olivier-rousteing-enhances-jean-paul-gaultiers-iconic-pieces-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/mode\/fashion-week\/olivier-rousteing-enhances-jean-paul-gaultiers-iconic-pieces-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Olivier Rousteing enhances Jean Paul Gaultier\u2019s iconic pieces"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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In 2020, the flamboyant Fashion Freak Show set the Folies Berg\u00e8re on fire to celebrate Jean Paul Gaultier\u2019s retirement from the fashion spotlight.<\/strong> Although the iconic designer took a step back, the house he founded years ago keeps his legacy alive by inviting each season new designers to rewrite the archives and identity of his house. After Chitose Abe with the label Sacai, then followed by Y\/Project and Diesel artistic director Glenn Martens, it is now the turn of Balmain artistic director Olivier Rousteing to unveil his very first haute couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier. This Wednesday, July 6th , in the heart of the house of Gaultier, Rue Saint- Martin, the show opened with sound archives by the designer before the silhouettes took off to the sound of Myl\u00e8ne Farmer\u2019s hit \u201cSans Contrefa\u00e7on<\/i>\u201d [\u201cWithout Forgery<\/i>\u201d].<\/p>\r\n\r\n

 <\/p>\r\n\r\n

The show in 5 references to Jean Paul Gaultier\u2019s iconic wardrobe. <\/b><\/p>\r\n

1 \u2013 A nod to \u201cLes Tatouages\u201d collection of Spring 1994 <\/b><\/h3>\r\n\n
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Jean Paul Gaultier par Olivier Rousteing, \u00a0@yannisvlamos<\/figcaption>\n <\/figure>\n \n

For the first silhouettes, Olivier Rousteing was inspired by the iconic collection \u201cLes Tatouages\u201d<\/b>, which he regards as a celebration of diversity. For his Spring\/Summer 1994 ready-to-wear collection, the irreverent Jean Paul Gaultier, whose influence stems from tattoo parlors and body artists\u2019 performances such as Ron Athey, had indeed borrowed from cultures using body modification as an aesthetic tool. From that original fashion show, Olivier Rousteing reworked the Indian nath <\/i>(the nose jewel), the layering of necklaces, as well as the fleshy and earthy color palette playing with transparency. In a rich patchwork, the colorful tribal patterns blend and contrast with Gaultier\u2019s emblematic ones, from sailor stripes to denim.<\/p>\r\n

2 \u2013 The conical bra, again and again <\/b><\/h3>\r\n\r\n

 <\/p>\r\n\n

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Jean Paul Gaultier par Olivier Rousteing, \u00a0@yannisvlamos<\/figcaption>\n <\/figure>\n \n

From sailor stripes to men\u2019s skirts, many pieces are inherent to the house of Jean Paul Gaultier. <\/b>Among them, the iconic conical bra designed for Gaultier\u2019s collection \u201cLe Dada\u00efsme\u201d (1983) and popularized by Madonna on her Blond Ambition Tour in 1990, naturally finds its place. Here, this emblematic piece is declined in jumpsuits, suits, and dresses, whose cut remind us of the armored silhouettes of the Balmain Fall\/Winter 2022-2023 collection. With the same mischievous and rebellious spirit we know from Jean Paul Gaultier, Olivier Rousteing offers an interpretation that exposes breasts in a trompe l\u2019oeil <\/i>style \u2013 Kim Kardashian wore a version of it in the front row. The designer also played with lacing, another of Jean Paul Gaultier\u2019s signature traits, such as on this pink satin jumpsuit entirely made of braids and laces, or on these sailor striped tops turned into bandages.<\/p>\r\n

3 \u2013 Playing with volumes and destructuring suits <\/b><\/p>\r\n\n

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Jean Paul Gaultier par Olivier Rousteing, \u00a0@yannisvlamos<\/figcaption>\n <\/figure>\n \n

\u201cThis is not a suit\u201d<\/strong><\/em>. For this collection, Balmain\u2019s artistic director takes up Jean Paul Gaultier\u2019s offbeat tailoring. He plays with shapes, leaves structures visible, turns an evening jacket into a formal skirt, introduces zips on jackets, merges an oversized suit with a sculpted bust or mixes it with denim… Experimenting at times with classic codes and sometimes with Gaultier\u2019s transgressive idiom, Oliver Rousteing reinvents the suit jacket with an inspired irreverence and modernity of his own<\/p>\r\n

4 \u2013 \u201cLe m\u00e2le\u201d fragrance inspires Olivier Rousteing <\/b><\/h3>\r\n\n
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Jean Paul Gaultier par Olivier Rousteing, \u00a0@yannisvlamos<\/figcaption>\n <\/figure>\n \n

The man, especially the sailor, is an emblematic theme and an object of desire<\/b>. It occupies a prevailing position in Jean Paul Gaultier\u2019s universe. Over the course of the designer\u2019s collections, the muscular hottie wearing the sailor stripes became a mythical symbol since the first fashion show in 1983. Today it has become a cult piece for Balmain artistic director himself, who gladly wears it. It evokes the 1982 homoerotic film Querelle <\/i>by Fassbinder, whose protagonist is a sensual sailor, who will later inspire the character of \u201cLe M\u00e2le\u201d, a tremendous success for Gaultier\u2019s perfumes. Olivier Rousteing captures the myth and works on his memory of the emblematic fragrance in its vintage can-shaped box in order to offer a sumptuous collection of heels made from the sailor\u2019s glass body. The final tribute to the iconic fragrance, which came to life thanks to Jean Paul Gaultier\u2019s vision, is a silhouette inspired by the design of the bottle featuring the emblematic shades that forms the stripes of the sailor.<\/p>\r\n

5 \u2013 An inclusive cast <\/b><\/p>\r\n\r\n

 <\/p>\r\n\r\n

The silhouettes are based on the inclusivity that has always characterized the approach of the two designers, both in terms of cast and inspiration. While Jean Paul Gaultier made the mix of genres, as well as diversity, the core elements of his universe, an enjoyed breaking down the limits between genders, communities, and social classes, Olivier Rousteing carries with him a resolute vision for a new form of inclusiveness in fashion. The designer told Num\u00e9ro: \u201cI have been called \u2018vulgar\u2019 for some of my casting choices, while someone who would only show skinny blondes with blue eyes would be called modern. If that\u2019s the Holy Grail of fashion, I\u2019d rather not be a part of it<\/i>.\u201d By presenting models from all walks of life, this show is thus the bearer of the fraternal link that unites the two designers in their mutual desire to celebrate the diversity of identities.<\/p>\r\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In 2020, the flamboyant Fashion Freak Show set the Folies Berg\u00e8re on fire to celebrate […]<\/p>\n

Read More… from Olivier Rousteing enhances Jean Paul Gaultier\u2019s iconic pieces<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":0,"featured_media":499302,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[16],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-499696","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion-week"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nOlivier Rousteing enhances Jean Paul Gaultier\u2019s iconic pieces<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/numero.com\/en\/mode\/fashion-week\/olivier-rousteing-enhances-jean-paul-gaultiers-iconic-pieces-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Olivier 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