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Zoe Turner revolutionises the knitted dress at St. John
In a sensual capsule collection, designer Zoe Turner reinterprets the ultra-luxurious heritage of the American label St. John, known for its elegant knitted dresses and jackets.
Par Chloé Sarraméa.
From New York to Beijing, Zoe Turner is travelling the world to present her very first collection for the house of St. John. With just 20 looks, she, who has already worked for Alberta Ferretti and Max Mara before taking over direction of knitwear creations in the Dior haute couture collections, is bringing this label founded by Robert and Marie Gray in the 1960s back from the ashes: “Thrust to the forefront of the scene in the 1970s and 80s, then gradually forgotten over the following decades, the aim today is to bring it back to life,” explains Zoe Turner.
Ultimately it was the iconic pieces originally imagined by Marie Gray at St. John that Zoe Turner has chosen to reinterpret, including the famous belted black woollen dress, the knitted jacket and the delicate lavallière blouse in silk. Fusing the former codes of St. John with her own inspirations, she has introduced animal prints and maxi gold details, sensual lacing and sculptural volumes, fluid and minimalist streetwear while the sublime fabrics become even more sophisticated.
The stand-out piece of the collection? The “Ottoman” dress, inspired by a piece designed 40 years ago with a plunging neckline, belt and with an openwork skirt. A subtle blend of grace and sensuality.
