7
7
Celine: Takeaways from Michael Rider’s debut show
On Sunday 6th of July 2025, Michael Rider presented his very first show for Celine. Held at the house’s historic headquarters, this show marks a turning point in both the designer’s career and the history of the French maison.
By Louise Menard.
Michael Rider’s debut show for Celine
Michael Rider is back at Celine
In October 2024, Michael Rider officially succeeded Hedi Slimane as artistic director of Celine. Nine months later, he unveiled his debut show, on July 6th, 2025.
After cutting his teeth at Balenciaga with Nicolas Ghesquière, then at Celine alongside Phoebe Philo, he became creative director of the women’s collections at Polo Ralph Lauren in 2018. His new appointment in 2024 felt like coming back to his roots for the American designer.
“Coming back to Celine has been incredibly emotional for me, and a complete joy,” he said. With his Celine Spring/Summer 2026 show, Michael Rider, who was until now working in the shadows, has managed to surprise us.
A show at Celine’s historic headquarters
Guests were invited to the house’s historic headquarters and welcomed in the courtyard of the Hôtel Colbert de Torcy. Located on Rue Vivienne, in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris, this 17th-century townhouse perfectly embodies the brand’s minimalist aesthetic with its raw charm.
When entering the building, guests discovered a large silk scarf suspended over their head. A strong symbol that set the tone for a collection with a proud bourgeois flair. This atmosphere was palpable right from the invitations, designed by artist Emiko Oguri.
Once a distinctive marker of social status, the scarf has always symbolized sophistication and heritage. It still holds a major place in the collections of the most prestigious houses, such as Hermès.
A collection embodying French chic
For this Celine Spring/Summer 2026 show, Michael Rider unveiled no fewer than 72 looks for men and women, weaving a thread between the various creative directors of the house.
While the slim silhouettes evoke Hedi Slimane’s aesthetic, the tailoring of coats, leather jackets, and suit trousers recalls the oversized shapes championed by Phoebe Philo. Not to mention the preppy wardrobe that reflects Michael Rider’s own vision, shaped by the six years he spent at Ralph Lauren.
Ultra-desirable accessories by Celine
Chains and jewellery with oversized volumes
From XXL belts and golden trinkets stacked around the models’ wrists to rings, bag charms and oversized wheat-shaped brooches, Celine goes all in this season with bold, ostentatious, yet desirable accessories.
Refined and elegant footwear
As opposed to jewellery, footwear is all about refinement. Mary Janes stand alongside slipper-like loafers made of ultra-soft leather, ankle boots with kitten heels that subtly elevate the silhouette, and patent derbies — the epitome of chic.
A new handbag inspired by an old iconic design
Aside from the raffia basket and numerous oversized shoulder totes, Michael Rider introduces a new bag that revamps the iconic Luggage. The it-bag of the 2010s designed by Phoebe Philo. Although he has curved the main zipper, the lines of the accessory remain the same for most parts. Much to the delight of the house’s loyal fans and nostalgic admirers…
Stars spotted at the Celine show
Paul Kircher, Théodore Pellerin, Vincent Lacoste… Many celebrities from French cinema and close friends of the house attended the show. British actress Naomi Watts was also spotted in the front row wearing a shirtdress layered under a black leather jacket.
The looks from the Celine Spring/Summer 2026 show
