14
14
Jean Paul Gaultier reissues iconic pieces from the 90s
Inspired by two of Jean Paul Gaultier’s iconic shows, the house’s new Cyber collection reissues emblematic creations from the 1990s. Here are five cult pieces, from the Vasarely dress to the collection designed with the Spanish jewellery brand La Manso.
By Léa Zetlaoui.
Since her arrival as the new creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier in 2021, Florence Tétier has shown a talent that matches her discretion and humility. She is the mastermind behind the couture collections that host inspired designers, such as Chitose Abe at Sacai, Glenn Martens, and Olivier Rousteing, who revisit the legacy of the great fashion designer. The French photographer and artistic director has also brilliantly relaunched the ready-to- wear collections stopped since 2014. As a master of the drop technique – a streetwear concept that consists in offering exclusive and ephemeral collections on the fringes of the seasons –, Florence Tétier has resurrected Jean Paul Gaultier’s cult pieces through cutting-edge collaborations with young designers, with stylist Lotta Volkova, or by surfing on the current craze for Y2K fashion.
This fall, Florence Tétier revamps two of Jean Paul Gaultier’s major collections – “Les Amazones” from the Fall/Winter 1995-1996 collection and “Cyberbaba” from the Spring-Summer 1996 collection. This latter directly refers to The Fifth Element (1997) with its techno-futuristic aesthetic, which is not surprising since Jean-Paul Gaultier designed the costumes for Luc Besson’s film. Entitled “Cyber”, this new drop is brought to life in an explosive video directed by Torso and inspired by À Table, a perfume advertisement directed by Jean-Baptiste Mondino in 1995. In Torso’s video, French singer Wejdene and artist ORLAN meet with a crowd of anonymous people selected during an open casting including 837 participants of all ages and genders, organized last September. Discover the secrets of this Cyber collection through 5 iconic, awesome, and cult pieces.
1. The brown Vasarely dress
Dug up by singer Charli XCX in 2019 and then by Kim Kardashian in 2020, Jean Paul Gaultier’s creations adorned with the works of Hungarian artist Victor Vasarely, remain as fascinating as ever. Just like the pioneer of the optical-kinetic art (or op-art), the fashion designer imagines a series of second-skin pieces on which dots prints follow the curves of the body through optical illusions. These pieces unveiled in the collection “Les Amazones”, which recalls Jean-Paul Gaultier’s attraction to morphing, are reworked on dresses, jumpsuits, top skirts, and swimwear in new neon colors.
2. The green laminated leather aviator jacket
As a great cinephile, Jean Paul Gaultier cites George Miller’s Mad Max films as the inspiration for this post-apocalyptic cyberpunk universe in which “Les Amazones” and “Cyberbaba” are rooted. In this female warrior’s wardrobe, military- inspired pieces can be found, like this aviator jacket available in black or acid green lamé leather, matching the fluorescent color palette of The Fifth Element.
3. The pair of khaki cargo trousers
As one of the emblematic pieces designed by Jean Paul Gaultier in the 90s, the cargo trousers make a comeback in this new Cyber collection. Formerly made of shiny satin, they are now more ethereal, with a loose fit, and made of a light khaki fabric adorned with drawstrings to highlight the hips and buttocks.
4. The laser-cut top
More abstract than “Les Amazones”, the “Cyberbaba” collection suggested a technological and digital aesthetic through ornaments and patchwork prints. Perforations and geometric lines recreated patterns of printed circuits, which used to serve as invitations to the fashion show. These stretch pieces now appear in a more streamlined style, adorned with surgical laser cuts, such as this minimalist white crop top with a deep neckline.
5. Rings by La Manso
Spanish brand La Manso, the surprise guest of this collection, completes this Cyber wardrobe with its maximalist colorful jewellery, which is 3D printed from recycled plastic. We find the famous and globular Dot ring adopting the Vasarely print, also available in cuffs and knuckles, alongside brass rings topped by a huge sphere, ornamented with smoked patterns and matching chokers. Despite their excessive aesthetic, these pieces of jewellery can be worn all together for the most extravagant effect.
