Which iconic fragrance inspired the Patou show?

By Camille Bois-Martin.

Published on 7 July 2025. Updated on 9 July 2025.

The house of Patou pays tribute to its iconic fragrance Joy

In 1930, Patou struggled financially like most fashion houses facing the economic hardship of the interwar period. Jean Patou responded by launching “Joy,” a perfume made from jasmine and rose, designed to offset declining sales. A jewel of cosmetics, the perfume came at a high price. 30ml used to cost the equivalent of a thousand euros today. It was a risky bet that paid off and helped revived the French label. The socialites at the time snapped it up as a collector’s item, turning Patou into one of the most sought-after names back then.

Though the fragrance has since disappeared – replaced by a new Dior creation after the brand’s acquisition by LVMH in 2018 – Guillaume Henry draws his inspiration from it for the Spring/Summer 2026 collection. First through flowers, which flood the collection’s prints and lace. They delicately hug the legs of some silhouettes or appear as maximalist patterns on dresses. The floral designs also echo the rose-covered dresses imagined by Jean Patou in the mid-20th century. The creative director shared images of them on Instagram ahead of the show held on July 6th, 2025.

Pocketed dresses and geometric cuts for Spring/Summer 2026

These historical references are translated in the modern age through Guillaume Henry’s sharp lens. Voluminous dresses and skirts now feature large pockets, while traditionally old-fashioned embroidered lace is turned into daring catsuits or crop tops.

Polka dots and geometric cuts – Patou‘s essentials – define a series of contemporary looks. Skirts are mini and gathered at the hips, jackets are high-collared, and elegant skirts are paired with sports bras. To complete Patou’s Spring/Summer 2026 silhouettes, oversized pearl necklaces, mismatched earrings, and a flurry of hair jewellery come into play.