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What’s to remember from Sabato de Sarno’s debut men’s show for Gucci?
Appointed creative director of Gucci in January 2023, Sabato De Sarno signed his first men’s Fall/Winter 2024-2025 runway show at the Milan Fashion Week. Standing as a sequel to his debut women’s collection titled Ancora, this new wardrobe marks a comeback to the roots of the fashion house’s aesthetics, with pure lines and sober colors.
By Erwann Chevalier.
Sabato de Sarno’s debut men’s fashion show for Gucci
At the head of Gucci’s artistic direction since January 2023, Sabato de Sarno presented his first men’s Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show at the Milan Fashion Week last Friday, January 12th, 2024.
Designed as a sequel to his first women’s Spring/Summer 2024 show for Gucci, this masculine wardrobe confirms the direction that the designer is willing to take to lead the Italian fashion house. Like in the September show, the same black box was used as a setting for the men’s show in order “to focus on the clothes”, as Sabato de Sarno explained to Vogue, an almost identical music produced by Mark Ronson and Lucky Love was chosen, and the same name Ancora (still in French) was given to the collection. Sabato de Sarno imposed his creative vision.
A true comeback to pure lines and colors in a sharp contrast with the maximalist, flamboyant style developed by Alessandro Michele between 2015 and 2023. Sabato de Sarno is nevertheless maintaining a more fluid style, blurring the lines between genres.
1. The Jackie bag for men
The Jackie bag has been back on the Gucci catwalks for some time now. A cult piece of the Italian house since the 1960s – just like the Lady Dior or the Baguette by Fendi – this patent leather bag made popular by American First Lady Jackie Kennedy is now available for men for the very first time. With its timeless, sleek, and XXL design, the Jackie can be paired with tone-on-tone gloves, here in a cherry-red version.
2. The ties 2.0 of the Gucci men’s Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show
To build a quintessentially chic Gucci silhouette, Sabato de Sarno revamped the traditional tie for his Fall-Winter 2024-2025 show. Say goodbye to impossible knots to wrap your tie around your neck – it now becomes a delicate scarf, flowing in the wind. Available in a wide range of colors, the bag is adorned with the Italian house’s emblematic bit.
3. Gucci’s maxi coats
This winter collection designed by Sabato de Sarno also contains more statement pieces, such as these long coats with straight lines and emphasized shoulders, which brush the floor with every step you take. Featuring a long slit at the back, they can be worn with wide-leg pants in a similar color and a white tank top enhanced with the famous tie.
