What should we remember from the Burberry show ?

by Camille Bois-Martin.

The British heritage of Burberry

Amid the dominance of French and Italian fashion houses season after season, standing out is no easy feat. Yet, since taking the helm in 2022, Daniel Lee has continuously reinvented Burberry’s identity, keeping it relevant despite London Fashion Week’s declining prestige. For Fall-Winter 2025-2026, the British designer delivered a collection that resonated with both his personal heritage and the brand’s DNA.

Reminiscent of an English lord’s countryside wardrobe, the collection—presented at the iconic Tate Britain—blended check prints and tapestry-inspired motifs with modern sophistication. Fascinated by the craftsmanship and lavish decor of England’s grand country estates, Daniel Lee drew inspiration from wallpaper patterns, curtains, rugs, and furniture encountered during his research. Jackets and knitwear featured medieval and Renaissance-style illustrations (pheasants, knights), while silhouettes were punctuated by kilts and scarves wrapped around the face—a subtle nod to Queen Elizabeth II’s many iconic portraits taken in her holiday residences.

Coats : The signature of the Fall-Winter 2025-2026 show

A Burberry staple, the classic beige trench coat with its signature tartan lining has long been a hallmark of the house. Under Daniel Lee’s keen eye, Burberry’s outerwear continues to evolve, adapting to both shifting weather conditions and contemporary trends, whether oversized or cinched.

For Fall-Winter 2025-2026, the classic trench coat was reimagined in embossed leather and adorned with fringe (as seen on Supermodel Naomi Campbell). Meanwhile, capes appeared in knitted wool and shearling, materials sourced from Burberry’s archives. Traditional raincoats were reworked in leather and velvet—one of which was notably worn by actor Jason Isaacs, recently spotted in The White Lotus season 3.

Timelessness over trends

Front row at the Burberry show, an unexpected guest stole the spotlight: a mysterious knight in full armor. Though the person’s identity remains unknown, the images went viral on social media and fueled speculation among fashion journalists. Some even likened the enigmatic figure to Daniel Lee himself, as rumors of his departure persist amidst the industry’s ongoing creative director shake-ups. However, this Fall-Winter 2025-2026 show seemed to suggest otherwise.

Mastering Burberry’s codes to perfection, Daniel Lee has crafted a wardrobe that transcends fleeting trends, carving out a contemporary and desirable identity that the brand had been lacking. This collection perfectly embodies that ethos, with its well-defined aesthetic—from a restrained color palette and sharp tailoring to its rich historical references. Fringe-adorned, sequined, or velvet dresses featured cinched waists or intricate textural details, complementing the coats, scarves, and accessories (umbrellas, bags) that continue to uphold Burberry’s legacy today.