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Valentino thinks pink for its fall-winter 2022-2023 show
Valentino Garavani’s love of red is well known and has become the signature colour of his fashion house. This season, a year after unveiling a collection entirely in black and white, Pierpaolo Piccioli, the Creative Director of Valentino, launched a collection that was shrouded in the same fuchsia pink, whose seventy or so silhouettes underlined the radicality of this colour…
By Matthieu Jacquet.
From the plush set to the smallest details such as the earrings, the intense colour created by the Italian designer together with the Pantone Color Institute –designing a unique and exclusive shade for the house– invited itself everywhere and showed its vast potential for transformation. Whether on long thick wool coats or flowing cotton shirts, the quilted down jacket lining of a parka or the sequinned fabric of dungarees, pink sometimes cloaked the body, sometimes made it sparkle while bearing it. Thanks to transparent muslins, lace and devoré, cut-outs or geometric additions, the skin sometimes surfaced under the pink, while embroidered and appliqué flowers decorated suits, coats and dresses of different lengths.
Often oversize, the garments draped the silhouettes with great elegance, sometimes hugging the body with very fitted pieces such as a straight dress with wrap-around draping, a high-waisted dress with a boat neckline that drew a wave over the chest, or a slim-fitting mini-dress –all garments whose monochrome hue enhanced their sculptural volume. With a love-themed playlist, the collection suddenly shifted to black, with taffeta dresses, leather jackets and textured jackets, before returning to pink to finish the show with a dramatic cape or a floral dress. As the designer wrote in his moodboard, “pink as a manifestation of the unconscious and a liberation from the need for realism”, an ideal towards which Valentino seems to be rising with great poetry.
