The gothic cacophony at Dilara Findikoglu’s show

Par Camille Bois-Martin.

Dilara Findikoglu shrouds her guests in darkness

Sunday, 9 p.m., London Fashion Week. Dilara Findikoglu set the meeting point at Ironmongers’ Hall, a private mansion looking like a manor. After drinking a pint of ale at a nearby pub, we found ourselves immersed in the venue’s gothic atmosphere, heightened by a sometimes terrifying rock music soundtrack played at a volume far too loud for a Sunday evening.

Everyone struggled to make their way to their seat, either blinded by the spotlights or swallowed by the darkness of the room. After more than an hour’s wait, a scream pierced the air… The soundtrack of the show had begun. Narrowly escaping a heart attack, the guests (among them Julia Fox) grabbed their phones to capture the first Spring/Summer 2026 silhouette. She stepped forward into the shadowy space of the hall to an enigmatic music score.

Her legs, covered in black marks, trembled, while the tips of her heels seemed to snap against the floor with every step. And yet, her gown was immaculate, draped elegantly around her hips, clinging to her chest in asymmetrical cuts. It was precisely in this contrast that the subtlety of Dilara Findikoglu’s creations lies.

The Spring/Summer 2026 show: An anthem to women’s emancipation

Entitled Cage of Innocence, the show was steeped in feminism. The Turkish-British designer dedicated it to all women “who were never allowed to express what they think or feel.” For centuries, womanhood was defined by innocence or purity. Those who stepped outside these codes were ostracized, judged and made invisible.

Thus, the white gown opening the collection, as well as the others that punctuated it, embodied that innocence. But Dilara Findikoglu slashed it, tore it, revamped it. She debunked this symbol of virtue to offer bodily and spiritual freedom. What was once a limit for women through the ages is now a strength. The corset exalted the chest, while the dresses freed the legs…

Naomi Campbell walks for Dilara Findikoglu

In short, the leitmotif of this Spring/Summer 2026 would be emancipation in all its forms, according to the designer. Even if some looks seemed restrictive at first glance. Like the faces of some models distorted by a horse bit in her mouth or blinded by headpieces. Not to mention the belts tightly fastened around a model’s legs, the latex dresses and skirts… Sexy, yes, but equally constraining to wear. Yet, these garments and fabrics are part of Dilara Findikoglu’s world, whose gothic, rule-defying aesthetic has won over the fashion world and the biggest celebrities.

Kylie Jenner, for instance, collaborated with the British brand last Spring. After that show, you could feel both drained by the long wait and the intensity of the performance, and at the same time captivated by these pleasant subversive creations. The crimson corset dress and the long cherry-adorned gown are standout pieces, as well as the almost surreal appearance of Naomi Campbell just before the finale.