Innovation rules and codes are mastered at Sacai

Sacai, or the beauty of continuity

“Stasis as to vector all in due course.” These are the words that opened the Sacai Spring/Summer 2026 runway show. Enigmatic at best… It can be understood in the sense that stability is the best way for things to happen in due time.

As Fashion Week draws to a close – one marked by numerous changes regarding creative direction – Chitose Abe opted for resilience in the face of change. Even though fashion tends to favour change and innovation, the 40 silhouettes from the designer’s collection gave evidence that it is possible to keep traditional codes, while preserving a sense of audacity.

There is something inherently captivating about following the creative work of Japanese designers, so often steeped in philosophy. This fascination stems from their relationship with craftsmanship and the passing of time. Out of the many core concepts in Japanese philosophy that address the notions of stability and perseverance are Gaman and Kaizen. The first one encourages to keep calm and suggests that efforts pay off when approached with patience and discipline. The second one highlights how results are achieved through the gradual accumulation of effort.

As she celebrates 26 years at the helm of her luxury brand, it’s striking to see the designer reflect on constancy. In a world evolving at a quick pace, what does it mean to create for a house that pays no attention to trends? We don’t have any definite answer from the designer, since she is known for shying away from interviews. Yet, her runway shows speak volumes.

Freedom beyond constraint

This season, Chitose Abe emphasised the brand’s signature codes, including hybrid garments and innovative techniques, particularly through her work on knitwear. Far from seeing these as limitations, each look happens to be a creative playground for her.

Standout pieces include her reinterpretations of tailoring, skirts that morph into capes, fluid dresses with sporty finishes, knits embellished with rivets, and iterations of the trench that transform into skirts or dresses. Seemingly complex, yet incredibly desirable, the silhouettes are immediately recognisable. Each one of them has a subtle twist to it and shift according to the movements of the person wearing it.

This Sacai wardrobe feels deeply personal and organic. A sentiment echoed in the message printed on the T-shirt of the fifth look – “At your best, you are love“. It also happens to be the title of a song by American singer Aaliyah. Perhaps that’s what matters most ultimately… The clothes we wear every day help us hold on to the constant feeling of being loved.