Gucci: What to think of Demna’s debut collection?

Par Léa Zetlaoui.

Demna, the designer who will save Gucci?

2025 is definitely shaping up to be a year of constant upheaval in the luxury world. No time off and plenty of surprises. This week, the spotlight is on Italy. Just as the Spring/Summer 2026 Fashion Week is set to begin tomorrow, Gucci has caught everyone off-guard by unveiling Demna’s debut collection.

Appointed six months ago, in March 2025, the Georgian designer left Balenciaga for the Florentine house last July. Rather than rushing to stage a fashion show within two months, he created 38 looks, already available in stores, which blend some classics with new designs.

A calculated gamble, as the group Kering, Gucci’s holding company, faces serious financial difficulties and needs to turn things around quickly. In this context, Demna appears to be Gucci’s trump card… If not its last chance!

La Famiglia: Demna’s take on Italian archetypes

Demna’s first collection doesn’t just restore Gucci’s visibility and desirability. It also reasserts its storytelling, a core value of any luxury brand. As Sophie Abriat explains in her book Dancing on the Volcano, “Fashion houses often draw on their past to build their storytelling – a symbolic capital that ensures a certain authenticity.” However, the author nuances that idea with a quote from luxury expert Éric Briones: “The good old-fashioned storytelling of yesteryear is no longer enough. You need to create entertainment and break the mould to win the battle against algorithms.”

Lately, it seems that storytelling has often been sacrificed on the altar of buzz. Yet for Gucci, a family-run house deeply rooted in the history of Italian fashion, returning to its roots feels essential.

First known to the public with the label Vetements in 2013, Demna has always approached fashion with a sociological lens. Whether at Vetements or at Balenciaga starting in 2015, his silhouettes have embodied true archetypes of contemporary society. At Gucci, he now explores another social pillar and uses it as the foundation of his creativity – family.

Entitled La Famiglia, this collection draws the literal and figurative portrait of singular personalities, while showcasing a wide range of styles emblematic of Gucci. When one recalls the many scandals that have marked the house’s history, this theme takes on a particular resonance. No surprise from Demna, who is known for his irreverence.

Demna revamps Tom Ford and Alessandro Michele

For a newly appointed creative director, finding the right balance between disruption and continuity is no small feat. Especially at a house like Gucci, founded in 1921, with a rich and eclectic legacy.

First, there were the jet-set-inspired collections, launched by three generations of the founding family. Then came the first revolution with the arrival of Tom Ford and the rise of porno chic in 1994. Later, Frida Giannini followed that path too. A second major shift occurred in 2014, with the appointment of Alessandro Michele. His baroque maximalism eventually ended abruptly in 2022. The latter had, in fact, synthesized all three eras in Gucci’s centennial show, where Demna himself was present as a guest.

Keeping that in mind, the Georgian designer shaped his debut collection and made subtle nods to both Ford and Michele. The Texan designer’s influence is felt in the ultra-sexy menswear looks – men’s briefs, low-rise trousers, fluid or sheer shirts on a bare chest. Meanwhile, the Roman designer’s touch shows through the vintage silhouettes reminiscent of Italian divas, the playful maximalism and the abundance of GG monograms in a intellectual chic version.

Demna’s first collection for Gucci is indeed cautious, but also compelling and relevant nonetheless. Especially as it signals the dawn of a new era for the great house. All eyes are now on Demna, waiting to see how he will rework the accessory lines, Gucci’s signature as a leather goods brand. Let’s see what he has in store for us next March 2026.

Demna’s first collection for Gucci