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Dior: what to remember from Jonathan Anderson’s debut men’s show
On Friday 27th of June 2025, Jonathan Anderson unveiled his debut Men’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection for Dior. A highly-anticipated event that heralded the new chapter that the Irish designer had been teasing on social media over the past few days…
Published on June 27, 2025. Updated on July 1, 2025.
Jonathan Anderson’s debuts at Dior
Last April, Dior announced the appointment of Jonathan Anderson as head of its menswear collections, following his departure from Loewe. The news had already been circulating within fashion circles. It was heightened early June when the designer was appointed head of the women’s and couture departments as well. A new chapter is now opening for both the French house and the Irish designer.
For several days, Jonathan Anderson had been dropping numerous clues about his plans for this debut Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show on Instagram. First, the house’s iconic Book Tote bags appeared on the shoulders of most of the models. He covered them with the titles of the books that inspired him, from Dracula by Bram Stoker (1897), Dangerous Liaisons by Pierre Choderlos de Laclos (1782), Bonjour tristesse (“Hello Sadness“) by Françoise Sagan (1954). Then, there was the expression “Dior by Dior”, hinting at a reference to the house’s history through its founder, Christian Dior.
An irresistible, vintage aesthetic
This inaugural collection makes the direction clear. Last Wednesday, Dior revealed that the Irish designer had delved into the house’s archives. And not only garments, but decors and accessories too. Yet, the pieces presented on Friday reflected the designer’s excellent knowledge of the heritage of the Parisian house. All the more impressive given how recently Jonathan Anderson stepped into his new role…
Indeed, the Dior Spring/Summer 2026 silhouettes sharply contrast with the last collection presented by Kim Jones this past January. Under Kim Jones’s direction, the menswear collections leaned toward modern, even avant-garde designs. Under the Irish director’s guidance, they adopt a compelling vintage flair, reminiscent of Oxford University students in the 2000s.
Wide trousers, a shirt hastily buttoned, a loosely-tied tie, and a shoulder bag worn on the back… That silhouette, seen on the runway, is subtly preppy and ultra-chic. And it confidently ushers in a new era for Dior led by Jonathan Anderson.
A highly-anticipated debut show for Dior Men
This highly-anticipated first Dior show by Jonathan Anderson has already made waves. Especially if we think of the faces chosen to represent the Men’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection. Through posters around Paris and Instagram posts, Jonathan Anderson revealed two Polaroids prior to the show. One of artist Jean-Michel Basquiat and another of Jackie Kennedy’s sistre, Lee Radziwill (1933–2019), along with the caption: “As I started out this journey, I kept returning to these photographs of Basquiat and Radziwill, who are both, to me, the epitome of style.”
Indeed, the insolent charm of Basquiat and the elegance of Radziwill can be felt in the designer’s creations. The seventies-infused aesthetic, the revamping of Bar suits, the dramatic Dracula-like capes, the Irish sweaters – a signature of Jonathan Anderson, already seen in his work at Loewe.
Detailed historical references
We can also note the abundance of bow ties worn as necklaces, detached from shirts and styled with sweaters or jackets. A surprising accessory, which joins many others seen throughout the collection. Among them are the high-top sneakers with undone laces and tailored vests – a nod to Basquiat’s signature style.
Another detail spotted in this first Dior men’s show by Jonathan Anderson is the two paintings hung on the walls of the set.One is the famous Basket of Strawberries (1761) and the other is the Vase of Flowers (1750) by artist Jean-Siméon Chardin (1669–1779).
This refined, slightly outdated artistic reference further highlights the aesthetic that the designer intends to bring to the French fashion house. That means a return to the classics and timeless elements of its history, embodied in particular by the masculine version of the Bar suit.
We also saw layered cargo culottes with wide, structured cuts that echo of the iconic Delft dress created by Christian Dior in 1948. Dramatic and architectural, this couture silhouette blurs the lines between masculine and feminine wardrobes. More symbolic perhaps, the collection marks the return of the old Dior logo and its oblique font. It leaves behind the capital letters used by Kim Jones and Maria Grazia Chiuri.
