Aquatic life at the Rabanne show

Time for a fresh start for Julien Dossena at Rabanne

We too often forget how much music can shape the theme of a runway show. To present its Spring/Summer 2026 collection for Rabanne, Julien Dossena chose to open his show with Easy, the flagship 2013 track by the band Son Lux. A haunting piece, whose lyrics play on repeat over a hypnotic beat.

“Burn all your things to make your fight to forget,” urges this cult track. In other words, the only way to forget is to burn everything you own to the ground. Could this be the idea behind the 34 silhouettes unveiled by the designer?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqsIg_htI_k

A Spring/Summer collection inspired by the 1950s

Inspired by the 1950s, the Spring/Summer 2026 collection is infused with optimism and seems to foreshadow some change. “In a time that’s really complicated, you can’t avoid the tension. But at the same time, you just really want to have that floating, sunny feeling around,” Julien Dossena told VogueRunway.

That desire for lightness and need for organic optimism, can be seen throughout the collection’s silhouettes featuring pastel shades, layering of prints and fabrics and playful touches. Wide belts — now one of his signatures — shoes are adorned with aluminum feathers, flip-flops are oversized, and checked shirts are tied around tops, their cut recalling Rosie the Riveter.

Here, deconstruction goes beyond clothing and reaches the collective imagination. Embroidery and embellishment bring a couture dimension to the fabrics like neoprene. Sophisticated dresses are slipped over colourful swimsuits. Low-rise, pencil skirts and proportions are exaggerated or reduced, and sunglasses evoke diving goggles.

A true invitation to a fresh start, to a new sartorial language where anything is possible. This collection is a call for exuberance, pleasure, but above all, renewal.

All the looks from the Rabanne Spring/Summer 2026 show