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Everything you need to know about Pitti Uomo 2026
As the 108th edition of the Pitti Uomo trade show is drawing to a close in Florence, Numéro looks back at the highlights of this opening week for the Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collections.
Polimoda students and the Children of the Discordance show kicked off Pitti Uomo 2026
Outside the fair, a show presented by the renowned Florentine fashion school Polimoda took place on Monday. The graduation show had nothing to envy from some already-established brands. Twenty international students each unveiled six looks that reflected their own creative worlds.
Under the scrutiny of a prestigious jury, they will name the valedictorian of the class on Thursday, June 26, 2025. Among others, the jury included Belgian painter Luc Tuymans and Michèle Lamy, the artist, producer, and co-founder of the brand Rick Owens.
The first major show of Pitti Uomo: Children of the Discordance, the label founded by Hideaki Shikama in Yokohama, Japan, in 2011.
The collection “Enfant Terrible” was presented in the raw setting of the disused Leopolda train station. It features a mix of archival clothing and street culture. The whole collection is guided by the musical influences dear to the designer.
Issey Miyake: guest of honor at the 108th edition of Pitti Uomo
The second Japanese label present this year is Issey Miyake, and more precisely, Homme Plissé, the guest of honor at Pitti 108. The latter presented its Spring/Summer 2026 collection outside Florence, in the French formal garden of the villa once owned by the Medici family.
A delicate and subtle collection dedicated to Italy, to travel, painting, and more broadly, to lightness. The Japanese teams spent time traveling throughout the country. Besides, they chose to focus on recreating the colours of Tuscan landscapes, Adriatic beaches and the poetry of antique fabrics.
It was also an opportunity for the brand to inaugurate a new way of showcasing its collections, called Open Studio. With that concept, Homme Plissé aims to break free from the traditional fashion week calendar, building its shows around cultural and artistic events across the world. Without any time constraints and drawing their inspiration from the host countries in order to make the creative process itself part of the presentation. To be continued.
The Niccolò Pasqualetti show in his native region
Another guest designer, Niccolò Pasqualetti was particularly moved to present his collection in his native region. The finalist of the 2024 LVMH Prize describes his beautiful Spring/Summer 2026 collection as a play on contrasts.
It stands at the crossroads between styles – military uniforms, workwear, tailoring -, fabrics – silk, leather, technical jersey – and silhouettes – asymmetries, strength and vulnerability.
Lastly, the show ended with the Korean label Post Archive Faction, created in 2018 by Dongjoon Lim. The collection was conceived as a poetic reflection on the passing of time and on travel (yes, again). All the while staying true to the brand’s architectural and utilitarian aesthetic.
A wide range of singular, yet complementary visions that form the richness of this edition of Pitti Uomo. This is one of the great strengths of the event, which is increasingly asserting itself as a go-to event in men’s fashion.
