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5 facts to know about Anthony Vaccarello, new Yves Saint Laurent creative director

 

Kering announced the appointment of Anthony Vaccarello at the head of Yves Saint Laurent. Here are five essential facts that you need to know about the Belgian designer.

Anthony Vaccarello by Nico

 

His beginnings:

Born in Brussels to Italian parents, Anthony Vaccarello embodies the perfect synthesis between Belgian rigour and southern sensuality. As a teenager he pored over the iconic campaigns of Richard Avedon for Versace that confirmed his decision to embark on a career in fashion. He entered La Cambre School, renowned for its experimental and conceptual approach to clothing. But far from offering dresses with three sleeves, Anthony Vaccarello followed his own path and graduated in 2006. 

 

 

Lou Doillon, muse of the fall-winter 2010-2011 collection

 

His fashion breakthrough:

Freshly graduated, the Belgian man won the Grand Prix du Festival d’Hyères with a collection made entirely from spectacularly woven leather, leading him straight into the fur ateliers at the house of Fendi in Italy. After launching his eponymous brand in 2009, Anthony Vaccarello made friends with a first class fashion figure: the actress and singer Lou Doillon who fell for his sexy dresses with their ultra-precise geometric cuts, and became the face of his label for fall-winter 2013-11. 

Left: ANDAM collection. Right: Karlie Kloss at the spring-summer 2012 runway show

 

The decisive turning point:

Anthony Vaccarello’s meteoric rise continued with his winning of the ANDAM Prize in 2011. Following this distinction, his spring-summer 2012 show reached dizzying heights as the hottest models of the moment, including Anja Rubik, Joan Smalls and Abbey Lee Kershaw, all proudly wore his designs on the catwalk. In fashion circles people still remember the energy emitted by Karlie Kloss in that long black asymmetric dress revealing one of her legs right up to her hip. The audience shuddered visibly. 

Left: Anna Ewers for Versus Versace fall-winter 2015-2016

Right: Vanessa Moody for Versus Versace spring-summer 2016

 

Anthony Vaccarello for Versus:  

When, in January 2015, he was appointed head of design at Versus, the house of Versace’s little sister, Anthony Vaccarello joined the fabulous Italian house and found in Donatella Versace his perfect godmother, bringing his teenage dream to life. Re-injecting the legendary fun back into the line by giving it his sense of geometry and line, Anthony Vaccarello delivered four extremely successful collections.  Putting his hand to the prints and having fun with the antique symbols that make up the Versace vocabulary, he created clothes that were both desirable and easy to wear.

 

Anthony Vaccarello at Yves Saint Laurent:

A few seasons under the leadership of Hedi Slimane was enough to impose the spirit of black and rock as the new codes at Yves Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello’s passion for dark colours and sexy looks certainly won’t displease the clientele that swarm the boutiques like a temple. At Versus, the Italo-Belgian designer showed his capacity to build complete wardrobes in a more commercial spirit than with his own brand name. Ultimately he also proved he could turn his hand to menswear. So here he is at Yves Saint Laurent, aged 33, with the doors of glory flung wide open. 

 

 

Check out Anthony Vaccarello’s exclusive playlist for Numéro.

 

 

By Delphine Roche

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