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Alain Paul dives into the MAD archives for his show
For Fall/Winter 2026-2027, designer Alain Paul draws his inspiration from 18th-century fashion and techniques. He unveiled his show inside the prestigious Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, whose archives inspired his new collection.
The Musée des Arts Décoratifs, both a runway inspiration and setting
In the past, Alain Paul would typically take over the stage of the Théâtre du Châtelet to present his collections. Today, the French designer seems to be opening a new chapter. After the pared-down spaces of the former premises of the Université Sorbonne Nouvelle, he unveils his Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show inside the prestigious Musée des Arts Décoratifs (MAD). In the heart of Paris, guests step into the exhibition rooms of the institution overlooking Rue de Rivoli and the Tuileries Garden…
However, the venue was not only the setting for this new AlainPaul collection, but permeates every silhouette of it. All of them were designed after a deep dive into the MAD’s rich archives. Small white gloves are laid out on the guests’ seats, as a reference to those worn by museum restorers and curators.
Recreating the proportions and patterns of the 18th century
Throughout the collection, the designer also offers numerous clues, especially with the looks enveloped in long, short-sleeved dresses made of silk organza. As though protected by garment covers, they reveal contemporary clothing through a subtle play of transparency. Faithful to the brand’s aesthetic, one can notice the layering of tight-fitting, technical tops.
During his exploration of the collections at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Alain Paul became fascinated by the narrow, floral silhouettes of the 18th century. That trend had already been spotted at London Fashion Week last season and now seems to be spreading throughout contemporary fashion.
One can discover basket structures revamped as flowing dresses and skirts made of viscose crepe with protrusions and drapery around the waist. There is also a reproduction of the traditional corset made of whalebone, imagined in technical knitwear. Equipped with modern boning, it offers unprecedented flexibility for this type of garment.
The fabrics themselves seem to keep traces of the passage of time. For instance, there are satin pieces that are compressed and pleated to evoke wear. The show also reveals numerous details drawn from this bygone wardrobe. Bows and ribbons punctuate the bustier of a dress, the waistband of a skirt and the collar of a jacket. Prints of drooping flowers, popular in 18th and 19th-century England and France, pop up on a series of silhouettes, embroidered on long, form-fitting dresses. The same is true of a tapestry motif from the same period, created in collaboration with Les Teintures de France, which covers a denim jacket and trousers in raised relief.
Living archives designed by AlainPaul
These are all new sources of inspiration within Alain Paul’s vocabulary, though he does not abandon the world of dance from which he comes and which usually nourishes his collections. Sportswear pieces appear throughout the show, such as a silk and cupro parka or a wool and cashmere sweater inspired by the brand’s signature bolero. The runway also reveals a collaboration with knitwear specialist Cécile Feilchenfeldt. Together, they imagine jewelry inspired by the trompe-l’œil ornaments of the Opéra Garnier. Drawing from the world of dance costumes and exaggerated jewels designed to be visible on stage, they unveil knitted accessories that resemble magnificent pieces of fine jewellery…
“Répertoire”, the title of this Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection, is in itself a direct reference to dance. “A repertoire is a set of works in constant evolution. In dance, both classical and contemporary pieces are endlessly reinterpreted by living bodies, giving them new momentum. This process echoes the wardrobe, where the same garments are continually revisited and reassessed throughout history,” the designer explains in the introduction of his show notes. A successful reinterpretation of the collections on display at the MAD.
All the looks from the AlainPaul Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show
