Jacquemus pays tribute to Paloma Picasso

Entitled “Palmier” (“Palm Tree”), the Fall/Winter 2026–2027 show designed by Simon Porte Jacquemus was the final act of the Paris Men’s Fashion Week on January 25th, 2026. Held inside the Picasso Museum in the heart of the Marais, the collection overflowed with references to the work of Pablo Picasso, Paloma Picasso, and of the house’s best-selling pieces.

By Louise Menard.

Published on 26 January 2026. Updated on 3 April 2026.

The Jacquemus Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show.

A Jacquemus Fall/Winter 2026–2027 show steeped in art and heritage

One thing’s certain, Simon Porte Jacquemus hasn’t lost his knack for storytelling. Once again, this Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show dived into his past while paying tribute to the artists who shaped his creative world. For guests, it felt like a leap through time. The Picasso Museum, which already hosted his Spring/Summer 2018 show, once again welcomed Jacquemus‘ magic.

But this season, departing from his usual approach, there were no stars on the runway — neither Laetitia Casta nor Bella Hadid — as Simon Porte Jacquemus chose to let the clothes speak entirely for themselves. Steeped in humility, he delivers a collection that reconnects with his journey and his origins.

Three takeaways from the collection

Picasso in the spotlight

A great art enthusiast, the designer had already staged a show at the Fondation Maeght a few seasons ago. In keeping with this artistic sensibility, Simon Porte Jacquemus now pays tribute to painter Pablo Picasso. While the master’s work had previously surfaced in a more underlying way across past Jacquemus collections, the designer this time makes a far more literal reference. Beyond the Pierrot costumes punctuating the show — echoing many of the Spanish artist’s iconic figures — cubist and sculptural jacket shapes also emerge throughout the silhouettes, alongside fish-shaped jewelry, a motif central to Picasso’s practice.

The show’s standout moment: Simon Porte Jacquemus reimagines a famous 1973 photograph by Helmut Newton featuring Paloma Picasso, the legendary painter’s daughter — dressed in a black gown, glass in hand, concealing her breast. This pose was recreated in every detail through the final look of the Jacquemus show. Sensual and powerful, the gesture questions femininity and reaffirms a statement that is central to the house.

The Jacquemus Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show Paris Fashion Week. — The Jacquemus Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show. © Isidore Montag.

References to past Jacquemus collections

Rounded, oversized shoulders, perfectly symmetrical tulip silhouettes, black-and-white tuxedos, oversized polka dots, massive hats, feathers… The Fall/Winter 2026–2027 show is brimming with direct references to the house’s archives.

The retro looks from the Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, titled “L’Amour d’un gitan”, naturally come to mind, while certain openly sheer dresses undoubtedly recall the last Jacquemus show held at the Orangerie de Versailles. What has made the house’s reputation continues to be carefully reinvented, further enriching its own universe.

Iconic accessories, refined to perfection

Unveiled last November, the Valérie bag — the ultimate tribute to Simon Porte Jacquemus’ mother — is the standout accessory of this collection. Reimagined as a clutch and offered in new colorways, including a vivid cyan blue and a bold yellow, it retains its minimalist silhouette, elevated by a golden metal clasp that completes its elegance.

Another piece that didn’t go unnoticed: a sculptural sheep-shaped bag. Almost directly modeled on the famous Troupeau de moutons work by artist François Xavier-Lalanne, it once again underscores the importance of art in the world of the French fashion designer.