The roaring twenties at the Lanvin Spring/Summer 2026 show

The roaring twenties according to Peter Copping

Lately, the 1920s have become one of fashion’s favorite decades. Indeed, there is the Paul Poiret exhibition currently on view at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. But perhaps, it might also be because that period resonates with our times. Both are marked by a climate of social and cultural transformation.

In fashion, the 1920s signalled the beginning of women’s emancipation with the end of the corset, claiming freedom of movement. Then, came the drop-waist dresses, whose simple, understated lines reflected a desire for fluidity.

This was enough to inspire Peter Copping who, for his second collection as creative director of Lanvin, gave a prominent role to the drop-waist dress. A black-and-white graphic version of it was actually the opening look of his show.

With hair held back by a scarf and hands in her pockets, the model showcased the notions of movement, modernity and sophistication infused Jeanne Lanvin’s designs. The following silhouette, cut from black fabric unfurling into fringes, was another nod to an era when jazz made Paris dance. Meanwhile, a remix of Fade to Grey by British new wave band Visage composed the soundtrack of the show.

Elusive femininity at Lanvin

Across the 60 silhouettes of the Lanvin Spring/Summer 2026 show, our eyes lingered on high-collared jackets, off-the-shoulder dresses, the new range of handbags… And above all, on the back. For it seems to be the focus of the house’s attention.

The back is where silk blouses fasten with buttons, where the bows of some dresses reveal themselves. Obviously, it’s a nod to the late Alber Elbaz, who made it one of his signatures. There too, a chain of jewels may sway or a cut-out dress may reveal the lower back.

As curator and historian Alexandre Samson writes in the conclusion to his introduction for the catalogue of his exhibition Backside, Fashion from Behind: “The back of a garment can always create surprise. The impression we form of a person seen from the front can change at any moment. Sometimes it takes only a turn to discover an original motif, a provocative message, or a sensual neckline…”

Yet, what emerges in Peter Copping’s designs for Lanvin is a type of femininity that cannot be easily captured. An aura of mystery that owes as much to the century-old house’s heritage as to the designer’s vision. An invitation to rediscover Lanvin from one collection to the next, to spot the codes hidden in the seams, to catch the unexpected details. A way, perhaps, of reminding us that, in fashion, reversal is often what that sparks emotion.

All the looks from the Lanvin Spring/Summer 2026 show