Versace: What to remember from Dario Vitale’s debut show?

Dario Vitale makes his debut at Versace

On September 26th, 2025, one of the most anticipated shows of this Spring/Summer 2026 season was presented at the Milan Fashion Week. Dario Vitale was presenting his very first collection for Versace. Unknown to the general public, the name of this 42-year-old designer had already been circulating backstage in the industry. The latter used to work as director of design and image at Miu Miu since 2023.

Let’s be honest, evaluating a collection without attending the show is no easy task. While the primary goal of an event like this is to highlight the clothes, the set, music and attitude of the models all help anchor them in a tangible reality. That’s why fashion shows have remained essential ever since the luxury industry first established itself as such.

However, when it comes to a house like Versace, whose codes have barely changed in nearly fifty years, one can allow oneself to form an opinion with caution and nuance. As a reminder, the pillar of Milanese fashion has only ever had two designers at its head. First, Gianni Versace, who founded it in 1978 and was assassinated in 1997, then his sister Donatella, who stepped down in March 2025.

The task may well be more challenging for Dario Vitale. All the more so since he isn’t the only one making his debuts this season. Just a few days earlier, Demna made his triumphant entrance at Gucci. The day before, Simone Bellotti’s first collection for Jil Sander drew less attention.

A tribute to the Versace of the 1980s

As is often the case, any new designer searches through the archives of a house to shape their first collection, before revamping them through their own lens. From the very first looks, the exuberance of the 1980s emerged as a clear nod to Gianni Versace’s early collections. High-waisted trousers, bright colours, loafers and mules shaped silhouettes that, one might argue, lacked more contemporary touches.

Donatella, sexy and glamourous

The glamorous, sexy image promoted by Donatella Versace since the launch of the Italian house is an integral part of its DNA. Perhaps influenced by his years at Miu Miu, Dario Vitale offered a much more subtle approach. Here, attitude takes precedence over style. This new Versace silhouette aspires to be more sensual than sexual. One can already picture Paul Mescal or Jonathan Bailey in some of the menswear looks.

Rewriting the Versace codes

Far from the baroque opulence we had grown accustomed to, the Versace codes were nevertheless present in this Spring/Summer 2026 collection. Greek patterns and pictorial iconography emerged as delicate hints, rather than total looks. Playing with contrasts in a treatment reminiscent of Prada’s, Dario Vitale dredged vintage spirit up rather than propelling it into our time. At the end, it remains unclear whether this approach is brilliant or outdated… Only time will tell.

All the looks from the Versace Spring/Summer 2026 show