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Glenn Martens unveils his debut couture show for Maison Margiela
On Wednesday 9th of July, 2025, Glenn Martens unveiled his debut Maison Margiela Artisanal runway show, drawing his inspiration from Flemish art and the codes of Martin Margiela.
By Louise Menard.
Glenn Martens’ debut show for Maison Margiela
Wednesday 9th of July 2025 was a date to remember in the fashion industry. While Demna bid farewell to the house of Balenciaga, Glenn Martens presented his first collection for Maison Margiela. A prestigious and eagerly-awaited debut show.
With a career that began at Y/Project and five years spent at Diesel, where he still works as creative director today, Glenn Martens is not with his first attempt. For the 42-year-old designer, appointed last January as head of Maison Margiela, this debut show was nonetheless a major challenge.
Indeed, he is succeeding the legendary John Galliano, who shaped the house for the past decade, but also taking on the demands of haute couture. An especially risky task for a debut show. With this Maison Margiela Artisanal Wall/Winter 2025-2026 collection, Glenn Martens delivered a nearly ceremonial show… One that ushered in a promising new era for the house founded in 1988.
A haute couture show drawing from multiple inspirations
With this Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall/Winter 2025–2026 collection, Glenn Martens paid tribute to his home country, Belgium. The design wove in numerous artistic references while embracing Martin Margiela’s signature codes.
A show inspired by Flemish art
In addition to references to Gustave Moreau’s paintings, especially to his distinctive brushwork, Glenn Martens draws his inspiration from the artistic heritage of the Netherlands. He makes a subtle nod to the roots he shares with Martin Margiela.
There are myriads of references, from draped metallic velvet with golden reflections reminiscent of Jan van Eyck’s canvases, to patterns echoing wallpapers found in Flemish interiors in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Not to mention the sculptural silhouettes, reminiscent of the statuary of Gothic churches. Among them, the see-through jersey dresses, enhanced with tightly laced corsets that mark the waist and accentuate the hips.
Glenn Martens pays tribute to Martin Margiela
Lit by rows of neon lights, the walls of the venue Centquatre were completely covered with a patchwork of torn off wallpaper. The staging set the tone, evoking the raw, spontaneous atmosphere of Martin Margiela’s early shows. They were often held off the beaten track in squats, underground parking lots, and abandoned spaces in the heart of Paris.
With a house like this, one cannot overlook the weight of its legacy. While some silhouettes recall Glenn Martens’ past at Diesel, many refer to the brand’s archival references. Take, for instance, the coated denim in several looks, reminiscent of the painted canvas blazer from the Spring/Summer 1990 collection. Or the plexiglass used in for opening silhouettes of the show, already featured in the Fall/Winter 1998–1999 collection.
Iconic accessories are revamped
At a time when runway shows often looks like a race for top models, Glenn Martens nurtures the pursuit of anonymity, a principle introduced by Martin Margiela right from the inception of the house. He also implicitly mentions another renowned designer, Matthieu Blazy, who was at the origins of the black mesh masks adorned with rhinestones seen in the Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall/Winter 2012–2013 show. Thanks to the masks tied at the back of the head and veils concealing each model’s face, the focus is back to what matters most – the garment and craftsmanship.
Of course, Maison Margiela goes with Tabi. Endlessly reimagined, the famous split-toe shoe appears as a leather boot or a sandal here. Each pair is elevated by a transparent wedge heel – an iconic detail designed by Martin Margiela himself in 1998.
The looks from the Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall/Winter 2025-2026 show
