2023 in 17 memorable fashion shows

Louis Vuitton Men Spring-Summer 2024

 

Gold checkered panels lining the Pont Neuf, a live performance by the Voices of Fire choir, a host of celebrities, Rihanna and A$ap Rocky’s late appearance, Jay Z’s concert… Pharrell Williams’ first show for Louis Vuitton’s menswear collections was undoubtedly one of the most memorable catwalks of the year, if not of the decade.  

Versace La Vacanza with Dua Lipa

 

After hosting its fashion show on the Hollywood hills a few days before the Oscars last March, Versace made the most of the Cannes Film Festival’s effervescence to present “La Vacanza”, an exceptional cruise collection co-created with pop star Dua Lipa. A pure fashion extravaganza dear to Donatella Versace.

Saint Laurent Men Fall-Winter 2023-2024 

 

For his first men’s show in Paris, Saint Laurent invaded a unique venue, untouched by any fashion event. Inside the circular concrete space of the Bourse de Commerce – Collection Pinault, pianist Paul Prier’s interpretation of the solemn music composed by French producer SebastiAn and actress and singer Charlotte Gainsbourg resonated. 

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023

 

Among Doja Cat appearing completely covered in red crystals – a make-up signed by Pat McGrath – and the controversy surrounding Kylie Jenner’s faux-taxidermy dress, the Schiaparelli couture Spring/Summer 2023 show hadn’t even started yet, yet already caused a stir. The sublime collection designed by Daniel Roseberry featured even more faux-taxidermy dresses and stunning sculptural looks…

Coperni Fall-Winter 2023-2024

 

After making its mark in 2022 with Bella Hadid, the label Coperni made its comeback with robots that interact with the models for its Fall/Winter 2023-2024 show. Inspired by Jean de La Fontaine’s poem The Wolf and the Lamb, the show offers a parable about human fears in the face of the rise of machines. Playing the role of wolves, the dog-like robots put on a choreographed performance, demonstrating their ability to cohabit with men rather than simply gobbling them up alive.

Valentino Spring-Summer 2024

 

In the magnificent nave of the Beaux-Arts in Paris, the sleek looks from Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection came to life as the magnetic singer FKA Twigs put in another memorable performance for the Italian fashion house. The artist has already sung for the men’s Fall/Winter 2020-2021 show.

Le Chouchou by Jacquemus

 

The Château de Versailles as a setting, the duo Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner on the catwalk, a collection of sexy, Marie-Antoinette-inspired looks, Rauw Alejandro, Monica Bellucci, Victoria and David Beckham as guests… Is it really necessary to explain why Jacquemus’ show “Le chouchou” is iconic?

Viktor and Rolf Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2023-2024

 

To celebrate the 30th anniversary of their house, the duo of designers Viktor and Rolf offered their guests a show that was bound to be extravagant. In addition to putting together a collection solely composed of swimwear with surrealist cuts, some of the models walked with the most unsettling accessory – lifeless, beheaded men wearing tuxedos. Just like a needy ex, they desperately cling to the models.

Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2023 in Seoul

 

Nicolas Ghesquière has staged countless spectacular shows in his decade-long career at Louis Vuitton. For the pre-fall 2023 collection, we headed to the Jamsu Bridge in Seoul to discover a futuristic, decluttered set designed by the director of Squid Game, Hwang Dong-Hyuk. Amid jets of water and blue lights projected onto the arches of the bridge, as an allegory of transformation, the pieces mixed classic French style with avant-garde K-Fashion.

Dior Fall 2023 in Mumbai

 

At a time when Western fashion is slowly starting to acknowledge the contribution of Indian craftsmanship to its history, Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of Dior’s women’s collections, chose the Gateway to India in Mumbai to present her Fall 2023 show. A meaningful location for a highly symbolic moment, highlighting the working relationship and friendship between the Italian designer and Karishma Swali, head of the Chanakya embroidery workshops and of the Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai. Inspired by designs from the Dior archives created by Marc Bohan after his trip to India in April 1962, the designer created silhouettes in color palettes and fabrics that emphasized the influences she shared with Karishma Swali.

 

Dior Men Spring-Summer 2024

 

To celebrate her 5th anniversary as artistic director of Dior’s men’s collections, Kim Jones created a show to match his success. Instead of a traditional catwalk, the models rose from the ground using a moving  set of hydraulic platforms. Always humble about the history of the French fashion house, the British designer celebrated his predecessors with a men’s collection steeped in couture details and archives by Yves Saint Laurent (1957-1960), Marc Bohan (1960-1989), Gianfranco Ferré (1989-1996) and, of course, Christian Dior (1946-1957) himself.

 

Valentino Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2023-2024 in Chantilly

 

A few weeks before FKA Twigs’ performance at the Beaux Arts in Paris, Valentino took over the Château de Chantilly to present its Fall/Winter 2023-2024 couture collection. The summer sunset and the immense fountain located in the French garden designed by André Le Nôtre enhanced the beauty of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s creations. A poetic suspended moment amid the madness of Fashion Week.

 

Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2023-2024

 

As a true master of stage direction, Thom Browne was bound to deliver a successful first haute couture show to mark the 20th anniversary of his label. For over thirty minutes on the stage of the Opéra Garnier, Thom Browne combined his emblematic gray suits with the techniques of haute couture, which he mastered to perfection. His final look was an immaculate wedding dress, with embroidered details imitating the pockets, buttons, and tie of a traditional suit.

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Moschino Spring-Summer 2024

 

A few weeks after the announcement of the departure of its artistic director Jeremy Scott, Moschino celebrated its 40th anniversary with a show imagined by four famous designers, who decided to pay tribute to the house’s founder Franco Moschino, who died in 1994. Drawing their inspiration from the 1980s fashion, the flamboyant silhouettes designed by Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and Lucia Liu created an electric and joyful atmosphere. 

 

Alaïa Fall-Winter 2024

 

Pieter Mulier confirmed his talent with a Winter-Spring 2024 show for Alaïa on the Léopold-Sédar-Senghor footbridge as the sunset lit up the French capital. A timeless moment for a collection that explored the notion of fetishism in fashion. “On a bridge, between the house of Alaïa’s origins and its present, figures cross in perpetual motion, their march set against the eternal human backdrop of an ever-ticking clock – the sound of time, yet also the rhythm of life”. The Belgian designer also acts as a poet.

 

Mugler Spring-Summer 2024

 

For the house of Mugler’s comeback to the Paris Fashion Week last October, Casey Cadwallader thought big. The setting stood at the crossroads between concert hall and garage rave party, with strobe lighting effects, deafening electro music and, above all, XXL fans. Sending hair, fabrics, and just about everyone who passed near them flying, these fans moved the notion of glamour to the next level. The prestigious, elegant catwalk gathered supermodels Mariacarla Boscono, Amber Valletta, and Helena Christensen, and actress Angela Bassett. The climax of the show was the appearance of the iconic it-girl Paris Hilton, who took the world by storm.

 

Boss Spring-Summer 2024

 

Highlight of Milan Fashion Week last September, the Boss Fall/Winter 2023-2024 show invited us on a journey to the near future, where robots became ultra-intelligent bureaucrats in an 2.0. open space. Did it represent a criticism of an overly routine working life? While the message remains unclear, the collection celebrates the German brand’s heritage and plays on the office wear trend with tailored looks and deconstructed, even avant-garde, cuts.

 

Translation by Emma Naroumbo.